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Top things I’ll miss in Sweden

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While studying abroad is a once-in-a-lifetime experience, the hardest part isn’t going to your host country: it’s coming back home.

Meeting new people from around the world is just one of the many advantages of studying abroad. Photo: Ben Mack

I’ve been studying in Sweden for about a year, and am definitely going to miss a few things. Here are the 14 I’ll miss most.

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1. Strawberries

 Back where I come from in Oregon, we’re known for having some of the best-tasting strawberries in the world. But even they pale in comparison to the Swedish variety, which taste like a combination of ecstasy, fulfillment, and a satisfaction in knowing you will never have better.

2. Winter

I know what you’re thinking: how can anyone love a season where temperatures can dip below minus 20 Celsius, snow is almost a meter thick, and it’s dark 18 hours (or more) a day? That’s precisely why I love the Swedish winter: it’s so different than what I had been previously used to. In Oregon, winter is marked by over 100 centimeters of rain, and in Boise if it’s snowing… well, if it’s snowing, then that’s the least of your problems. But in Sweden mayors don’t declare a state of emergency when it snows, and the glistening white stuff is also, I’ve discovered, a lot of fun to play in.

Swedish pancakes are, in a word, delicious. Photo: Anne Balonier

3. The food

Sweden may not usually be the first place that comes to mind when people think of tasty national cuisine, but I’ve found Swedish food to be surprisingly scrumptious – and much more diverse than herring and köttbullar. It’s much more affordable than it is in the U.S. (where you usually have to go to a specialty store or IKEA), and obviously more authentic too. And, when I was tired of traditional Svensk mat, grocery stores carry foods from all over the world, including the artificially preserved,  flavorized, prepackaged, hormone-treated, sugar-infused fare I – unfortunately – was raised on.

4. The people

This one comes as a no-brainer. Life isn’t just about what you do: it’s about who you meet. And in Sweden, I’ve met some amazing people, from Swedes such as my host family and close friends to fellow exchange students who’ve helped me broaden my horizons and taught me a lot about myself, too. If it wasn’t for this motley cast of characters, there’s no way my time abroad would have been as magical as it was.

Any time is a great time for a fika! Photo: Anne Balonier

5. Fikas

A uniquely Swedish creation, a fika is a great way to spend time with friends, family, classmates, coworkers, or just about anyone. It’s also a great excuse to consume more coffee and sweets than your mother would have ever allowed you to have growing up.

6. The queue system 

Back home, when you go to someplace like the bank, housing office, etc. you have to wait in line. And wait. And wait. And wait. But in Sweden, you just take a number and wait for your number to be called.  It’s great for people such as myself who can never stay in one place for more than three minutes.

7. Traveling by train 

Trains in the U.S. are few, far between, and incredibly expensive. In Boise, a city of more than 200,000 people and a metro area of half a million, there isn’t even a single operating train station. Pretty much every town in Sweden has a train station, and – in my opinion – paying 400 kronor to travel from Växjö to Göteborg seems pretty cheap. It’s a great way for students without cars to get around.

Kronobergs Slottsruinen, located north of Växjö, dates back to the 15th century. Photo: Ben Mack

8. The history

Some Swedes may gripe that there isn’t much history in Sweden, but it’s a whole lot more than where I come from. Back in Boise, the oldest building is an old log house from the 1800s. In Sweden, people live in houses older than that. Heck, the Växjö Domkyrka (Växjö Cathedral) was built in the 12th century – more than 300 years before America was even “discovered.” Every town has its own rich and unique history.

9. Allsvenskan football

Few things are able to match the passion — and intensity – of Allsvenskan football matches. It’s one of the rare times you’ll see Swedes lose all emotional control, and is certainly not to be missed.

Few things match the passion and excitement of Allsvenskan football. Photo: Ben Mack

10.  My host family

Host families are a fantastic way to see the “real” Sweden, and I had a great time with mine. From going to football matches, to barbecues, to fishing, to speaking to secondary school students and to jumping in frozen lakes, I will miss them greatly.

11.  The summer

If the Swedish winter is spectacular, then the summer is even more so. Photo: Ben Mack

If the Swedish winter is spectacular, then the summer is even more so. Temperatures around 20 Celsius, clear skies, 18 hours of sunlight, Midsummer… what could be better?

12.  Nature

Swedes have a special connection to nature, and it’s easy to see why. Never in my life have I seen a country as green as Sweden is. From the forests to the meadows to the thousands of lakes, it’s hard to imagine more beautiful scenery anywhere else on earth.

13.  Teleborgs Slott

Sure it’s not that old (built around 1900), and sure it’s not that big, but it’s the first castle I’d ever seen. And when it’s only a five-minute walk from your flat, you tend to spend a lot of time there. Truly, it’s the most magical place I’ve ever been. No matter the occasion – whether I was having a bad day, was stressed out, wanted to enjoy nature, meditate, hang out with friends, take a girl on a date, study, or whatever – I could just walk through the castle’s spacious grounds or inside to have a fika. Every moment spent there was spent in timeless bliss.

Though not very old, Teleborgs Slott is nonetheless magnificent. Photo: Ben Mack

 

14.  The Swedes

Whether it’s their closeness to nature, tolerance of others, friendliness, ingenuity, or helpfulness, it’s obvious the Swedes are special. Never before have met friendlier, more tolerant, or helpful people in my life. With them, the glass is always half-full. And their smiles can power a small city. And they’re the most loyal friends you can ever have.

My advice to anyone coming to Sweden: enjoy every moment of it. Because when you’re gone…

You’re not in Sweden anymore. And that’s what I’ll miss the most.

When you're in Sweden for a year, you tend to meet at least a few Swedes. Photo: Tiina Syränjen

Ben Mack — Student

June 26, 2011

The magic – and madness – of Midsummer

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So, what’s the strangest holiday you can think of?

Perhaps you’d say Halloween, an American creation which – as far as I can tell – consists of children dressing up as witches, ghosts, zombies, and all manner of less-than-kosher creatures and visiting the homes of strangers to ask for candy. Or maybe you’d say Diwali, a five-day Indian festival that involves enough fireworks to rival the energy output of the sun. And don’t forget Dia de los Muertos, the Mexican celebration of the dead in which people honor their deceased loved ones by eating skulls made of sugar.

Following basic logic, you’re probably thinking that next I’m going to say that the Swedish Midsummer is the strangest of them all, a holiday that, with its dancing around maypoles and eating more than even an elephant can stomach, makes about as much sense as O.J. Simpson and that infamous car chase.

I could say that but, honestly, Midsummer makes perfect sense. Heck, compared to other traditions it seems – dare I say it – downright normal. Allow me to explain.

Dancing around a maypole is one of the highlights of Midsummer. Photo: Mikael Häggström/Public Domain

June 25 is Midsummer, one of the biggest holidays of the year in Sweden. Traditional events include raising and dancing around a huge maypole (majstång or midsommarstång), an activity that attracts families, neighbors, wild animals, and pretty much anything with a pulse in Sweden. People listen to traditional Swedish music, and some even wear traditional folk costumes that, personally, look much better than those highly stereotyped Bavarian beer maid outfits or whatever you call that decidedly bizarre getup yodelers wear. In addition, many girls wear crowns made of wild springs and wildflowers on their heads. Potatoes, herring, chives, sour cream, beer, snaps and the famous Swedish strawberries are usually eaten, and a variety of drinks are consumed – proving, once again, that you can’t have a holiday in Sweden without eating something.

Like many other things in Sweden (see: winter), the key to surviving Midsummer is endurance. Endurance in the face of a gastronomic smorgasbord that could make all but the hardiest faint. Endurance in the face of talking to relatives you haven’t seen since Christmas or longer. And endurance in knowing that, thanks to almost 24 hours of summertime sunshine, the party might very well go on all day and all night.

But think about it: if you lived in a country where there’s frost on the ground six months out of the year, almost 24 hours of darkness in winter, and occasionally home to some of the coldest winter temperatures on the planet, wouldn’t you want to celebrate once the sun and warm temperatures arrived? Of course you would. And what better way to celebrate than on one of the warmest and sunniest days of the year?

Humans aren't the only ones who love Midsummer weather. Photo: Ben Mack

There’s some interesting history behind Midsummer, too. Because Midsummer was thought to be one of the times of the year when magic was strongest, it was considered a good night to perform rituals to look into the future. Traditionally, young people picked bouquets of seven or nine different flowers and put them under their pillow in the hopes of dreaming about their future spouse. In the past it was believed that herbs picked at Midsummer were highly potent, and water from springs could bring good health. Greenery placed over houses and barns were supposed to bring good fortune and health to people and livestock. To decorate with greens was called att maja (to may), and may be the origin of the modern word majstång. Other researchers say the term came from German merchants who raised the maypole in June because the Swedish climate made it impossible to find the necessary greens and flowers in May, and continued to call it a maypole. Today, however, it is most commonly called a midsommarstång (literally “midsummer’s pole”).

Another Midsummer tradition is that unmarried girls should – before going to sleep on midsummer’s eve – pick seven kinds of flowers and jump over seven roundpole fences and then sleep with the flowers under a pillow. Supposedly, during the night they would then dream about who they would get married to. If only things were that simple today, huh?

O.K., so maybe Midsummer is a little strange. But it’s about as Swedish as anything can get, as quintessentially part of the country’s heritage as meatballs, julmust, and red wooden houses.

Midsummer is a great time to hang out with friends. Photo: Tamar Amashukeli

And if you’re a lonely student looking to see what the big deal about dancing around a maypole really is, never fear: many towns and cities offer public Midsummer celebrations (the annual Midsummer celebrations held in Stockholm’s Skansen Park and Leksand in Dalarna are said to be the largest in the world).

If you’re lucky enough to be in Sweden this time of year, go out and enjoy Midsummer. I promise there won’t be any kids ringing your door at 11 p.m. asking for candy.

Ben Mack — Student

June 24, 2011

The essential Swedish summer student guide

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You smell like a goat. You’re unshaven. You work endless hours in dimly lit caves. You speak a language understood only by others of your kind. You fear women and put prices on men’s heads. And legions of enemies long to destroy you.

The Swedish summer is not to be missed. Photo: Ben Mack

You are, of course, a journalist.

All you care about is your pretend world of writing. Everything you do is in an effort to find words for your next story. That’s all it is.

On the other end of the spectrum of humanity, you have the student. Idealistic, joyful, fresh-scented: the antithesis of a journalist.

Everything you encounter you view with a sense of open-minded wonder. Life is seen as a series of experiences, and your only motivation is to experience them.

And when it comes to experiences, the Swedish summer is chock-full of them – and at student-friendly prices, too.

If you decide to come to Sweden before the start of the fall semester – or stick around after the spring – you’ll be in for a treat that even dour-demeanored journalists such as myself can appreciate.

Here’s a brief (and admittedly very small) sampling of what you can do:

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SEE THE MIDNIGHT SUN

In Norrland, the sun almost never sets during the summer. Photo: Ben Mack

While normally associated with ice hotels, the Northern Lights and freezing temperatures almost year-round, head up to Norrland during the summer and you can experience sunshine almost 24 hours a day. It never gets totally dark, and is a great chance to go north of the Arctic Circle without needing snowshoes. Be sure to check out the wildlife such as reindeer, and if you get a chance try hiking up Kebnekaise, Sweden’s tallest mountain (over 2000 meters high). You can also learn about the Sami, the indigenous people who have lived in Sweden for more than 5000 years.

SJ offers daily (and nightly) train journeys, going as far as Narvik, Norway. A one-way trip from Växjö takes more than 20 hours, but offers spectacular views of some of the most unspoiled natural areas in the world.

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GO FISHING

Thousands of lakes dot Sweden, and almost every one of them is loaded with fish. And thanks to allemansrätten (“everyman’s right”), you can fish in quite a few of them. Check local laws first, though, to make sure you’re not catching an endangered species.

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ROUGH IT SWEDISH STYLE

Swedes are known for having a special connection to nature, which is reflected in architecture. Photo: Ben Mack

Allemansrätten gives a person the right to access, walk, cycle, ride, ski, and camp on any land –with the exception of private gardens, the immediate vicinity of a house and farmland. Restrictions also apply for nature reserves and other protected areas. The law also gives the right to pick wild flowers, mushrooms and berries (provided they are not legally protected), but not to hunt. Swimming in any lake and putting an unpowered boat on any water is permitted unless explicitly forbidden. Visiting beaches and walking by a shoreline is permitted, providing it is not a part of a garden or within the immediate vicinity of a residence. According to legal practice this is between 100 to 300 meters from a dwelling house.

In other words, almost the entire countryside becomes your own personal playground. Just remember to clean up after yourself: Swedes take environmental stewardship very seriously.

Despite its northerly location, daytime summer temperatures throughout Sweden are commonly above 20 degrees Celsius. So go and enjoy the great outdoors – without losing a kilo of sweat.

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GET YOUR GROOVE ON

Summer is music festival season throughout Europe, and Sweden is no exception. Photo: Csilla Nagy

Summer means music festival season, and Sweden offers a plethora of them for almost every taste. From large, multi-day events such as Gothenburg’s Way Out West (this year from August 11-13 and featuring Kanye West, Robyn, Tiësto, and dozens of other bands) to smaller festivals such as Norbergfestival (July 28-30 in Norberg, featuring electronic and experimental acts like Lustmord and Dopplereffekt) and Skogsröjet (August 12-13 in Rejmyre, with metal bands like W.A.S.P. and hardcore Superstar), there’s something for everyone. Many festivals also offer camping, meaning you can turn your trip into an aural adventure.

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RELEASE YOUR INNER IBRAHIMOVIC

Helsingborg's Olympia Stadium is just one of many that hosts regular Allsvenskan matches. Photo: Ben Mack

Allsvenskan (meaning “All-Swedish”) is the highest division of football in Sweden, with the 16 teams playing a 30-game schedule from April to October. Most of the teams are located in southern Sweden, and each stadium holds thousands of supporters. Student tickets can be as cheap as 100 kronor, and even if you’re not a die-hard supporter of a club, it’s a great way to spend the afternoon and watch normally mild-mannered Swedes display emotions you didn’t think were possible. And with Swedish football encompassing a total of 10 tiers (Allsvenskan, Superettan, and Divisions 1-8), there’s a match going on just about everywhere.

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STUDY SWEDISH

Make your summer a study summer, where you learn Swedish to get a leg-up before fall classes start. A number of study associations offer courses at all levels. Possibly, you might also be eligible for university courses in Swedish, either full- or part-time.

Once you’ve achieved a certain level of proficiency, you can get a certificate by passing a recognized test.  To find the program that’s right for you, the Swedish Institute has some great links to get you started.

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DANCE AROUND A MIDSUMMER MAYPOLE

June 25 is Midsummer, one of the biggest holidays of the year in Sweden. Traditional events include raising and dancing around a huge maypole (majstång or midsommarstång), an activity that attracts families and many others. People listen to traditional music and some even wear traditional folk costumes. In addition, many wear crowns made of wild springs and wildflowers on their heads. Potatoes, herring, chives, sour cream, beer, snaps and the famous Swedish strawberries are usually eaten. Drinking songs are also important, and many drink heavily. Swedish culture at its finest, it is truly an event not to be missed.

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So while the above list may just be a small sampler from the Swedish summer smorgasbord, know this: there’s never a shortage of things to do. For more ideas, head to your local tourist office (most towns have one), or search online.

Or better yet, step outside. You’ll be surprised how sunny it is.

If you’re a journalist, it’s a great way to at least get tan enough to resemble a ghost. That, and more material for your overly exaggerated narrative.

Swedish National Day, June 6, is sometimes called the unofficial start of summer. Photo: Ben Mack

Ben Mack — Student

June 13, 2011

Keeping up with the Nordmarks

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You’re in Sweden. Lost. Alone. Don’t know a word of the language.

Having a host family is a great way to experience Swedish culture. One thing you might learn is how to row a boat. Photo: Lennart Nordmark

What are you to do? Get back on the plane? Call your parents? Head to the nearest singles bar?

How about call your host family? You know, the people who volunteered to show you Swedish culture and provide support when you emailed the international office at Linnaeus University saying you were interested in participating in the “Friend Family” program.

It’s an idea, isn’t it? They’ll be glad you called them.

You’ll have a lot of fun. I know I have. Heck, I’ve had more strange adventures with them than Indiana Jones in any of George Lucas’ movies.

Let me tell you about my host family, the Nordmarks. They’re an average, middle-class Swedish family that lives in Växjö. They have three children, and like many Swedish families own a summer house which they share with my host father Lennart’s brothers. They’re both school teachers, and have lived in Växjö their whole lives.

My host family's "summer" house in winter. Located on the shores of Lake Helgasjön, the house has been in the family since 1907. Photo: Ben Mack

Sounds rather bland doesn’t it? Well read on, Einstein.

I’ve had a lot of fun with this “typical” family. I’ve spoken several times to students at both the schools my host parents teach at, showing Powerpoint presentations about the U.S. and answering the kind of questions most teenagers have when encountering a visitor from a foreign country, especially the U.S. Seriously, the knowledge these students have of hip-hop music and the Twilight series is extraordinary.

With them, I’ve also survived multiple encounters with soccer hooligans, failed to catch a fish in three attempts, helped repair a lawnmower, successfully navigated a fika with a 97-year-old woman who has been to 37 U.S. states and five continents, dropped by unannounced for waffles, and consumed more sausages than any previous human in history. Oh, and I’ve also jumped into a frozen lake in the middle of February, spent multiple hours attempting to pick up a drill out of said lake with a magnet and string, and watched prepubescent girls march around with candles in their hair in a show of pageantry and pain tolerance known as Lucia.

Forget trying to keep up with the Joneses. Try keeping up with this family.

On Lake Helgasjön near the Normark's summer house north of Växjö. Photo: Ben Mack

But really, having a host family is about more than random adventures and going on more side trips than the guys in The Hangover. It’s about cultural exchange, sharing your own culture while learning about Swedish culture in an environment other than just an on-campus pub or from your Swedish classmates who are as equally broke as you are.

While with the Nordmarks, I’ve learned about Swedish cuisine, how Swedish families interact, and of course what life is like in Sweden when you’re not just a student. And through that, I’ve been able to examine my own culture, and realized that – in the end – we’re all human and share the same values and beliefs.

And if it wasn’t for them, I’d never have realized pickled herring is absolutely delicious, despite the odor.

So, what are you waiting for? Pick up that phone and make that call. You made the effort to be paired up with a host family, so why not meet them? At the very worst you’ll be getting a free meal.

At the very best you’ll be meeting people you’ll hopefully stay in close contact with for the rest of your life.

Sure makes that 20 kronor phone call worth it.

My host family, the Nordmarks. Photo: Ben Mack

Ben Mack — Student

June 6, 2011

Sitcom syndrome

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Temptation. Ever dealt with it? You know, it’s that feeling you get every time the weather warms up, or whenever you walk inside H & M. In my case, it’s also what I deal with when I see anything with a combination of the words “free” and “food.”

But there’s another temptation too. And no, it has nothing to do with clubs located on campus, cheap travel to foreign destinations, pool halls, and/or the worldwide phenomenon known as herring.

When abroad, try to meet people who aren't all from your home country.

That temptation, faithful readers, is the temptation to remain complacent. It’s the temptation to not go out of your comfort zone, to only hang out with people who come from the same country, speak the same language, or wear the same brand of skinny jeans as you.

There’s a lot of sad stories out here in Växjö. Students that come to Linnaeus University and only spend time with other students from their home country, never making an effort to meet any Swedes or even learn a word of Swedish. It’s a dark, lonely existence, and unfortunately happens more than you might think.

Sure, going abroad might be scary. Sure, it can be hard to try and learn a new language. And sure, the typical Swede might not exactly be as talkative as , say, the average Italian. I know this sounds horribly cliché, but that fear can be overcome. Because I did it.

Spending time with Swedes is a good way to learn Swedish.

Hey, come closer! Yeah, that’s right: get over here. Now lean over. Closer. Just a little closer. O.K. That’s perfect. Now listen to this. Let me let you in on a little secret: I’m not the only American in Växjö. It’s true. No I’m not lying. But while there are other Americans here, I don’t spend any time with them.

Sounds cruel, doesn’t it? But it’s the truth. The logic is simple: if I wanted to hang out with Americans, I would have stayed in a certain country that happens to have over 300 million of them called America. But in Sweden I prefer to meet, well, Swedes.

Once you take that first step of conquering your fears, everything else seems to fall into place in almost fairy tale-like fashion. O.K. so it’s not quite Cinderella corny, but it’s still pretty cool.

Going out of your comfort zone is vital for success abroad.

Let me give you two different scenarios. Billy and Bob both came to Sweden for a year from a small college in Kansas. Billy didn’t know any Swedish, but went out of his comfort zone, joined a choir, and now speaks Swedish more than he does English.

And Bob… well, when Bob came back to the U.S. and shared his adventures with me in a fictitious Seattle sports bar, I turned to my equally fictitious server and asked if the place served crow. Alas, the kitchen was closed.

Take my advice. Be bold. Go out of your comfort zone. Otherwise, you’ll be stuck with what I hereby christen Sitcom Syndrome – the state of being where you’re forced to watch boring reruns on TV because you didn’t take the chance to live life to the fullest.

How’s that “Lone Ranger” box set treating you, cowboy?

Ben Mack — Student

April 28, 2011