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Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Stockholm A/W 2012: Menswear Trend Report

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The fashion circus is over for this time as you know having read Sabrina’s post from yesterday and as hectic as they are (especially if you are, as I was, reviewing some of the shows over at Bon.se and trying to get the review up within two hours) they are also great fun.

In many ways Sweden’s men are the true fashionistas of Sweden, so a proper look at what was happening over the three days that go under the name of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Stockholm needs to include the biggest fashion trends for male consumers.

Ubi Sunt A/W 2012

1. Turtle necks

On the first day of the week, at Filippa K Man, designer Morgan Sundberg explained to me that the turtle neck was back. His words were to be proven true in almost every menswear show over the following days and worn in any way possible from chunky, as at Whyred and Boomerang, to thin, as at Ubi Sunt, or in between: Oscar Jacobson.

J. Lindeberg A/W 2012

2. Quilted

Techno looks were mixed up with more natural-looking materials and the synthetic vibe often came in the way of quilts. Most innovative were J. Lindeberg who showed quilted cargo shorts worn over trousers or leggings, but the material were spotted at Josefin Strid, Boomerang, The Local Firm and V Ave Shoe Repair.

Whyred AW 2012

3. Sixties silhouette

It’s the Mad Men influence that keeps trousers cropped and suits sharp. It was no wonder that it was the mod aficionados at Whyred who did the look in its most clear way, but the cropped trouser suit turned up at Oscar Jacobson and Tiger of Sweden as well.

Josefin Strid A/W 2012

4. Eastern influence

Most obviously seen at the Cheap Monday show where jumpers were wrapped around heads in a way reminiscent of Afghani mujaheddin, Eastern dress styles kept being alluded to throughout the week. Long shirts, reminiscent of the Pakistani kameez were seen at Carin Wester while sarongs popped up at Josefin Strid.

Oscar Jacobson A/W 2012

5. Dandy

The autumn in many ways seem a bit more dressed up than previously, it was a trend we could see at the international shows and it was also evident here in Stockholm. Capes at Oscar Jacobson, Karl Lagerfeld collars at Ubi Sunt and all-grey double-breasted ensembles at Carin Wester – it signals a move away from the more outdoorsy urban looks we’ve seen recently.

V Ave Shoe Repair A/W 2012

6. Styling

In a couple of shows there was a return of styling as a way of making clothes look fresh and interesting. It signalled that fashion designers think we should have some fun with the clothes and adapt them, turn them around and wear them in unexpected ways. This was seen as Cheap Monday, V Ave Shoe Repair and The Local Firm.

All photos by Kristian Löveborg, courtesy of the ASFB.

 

Daniel Björk - Fashion

February 5, 2012

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Stockholm A/W 2012: Womenswear Trend Report

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Over a hectic three days earlier this week, the A/W 2012 edition of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week took place in Stockholm. We scampered from one show to the next and scrounged for food when we had a few spare minutes, but once we settled into the venue and the lights were dimmed, the excitement of what’s to come on the runway made it all worthwhile.

With more and more international eyes turning towards Sweden for the latest in nonchalant style and clothes people will actually wear out of the house, the shows provide a glimpse of the next big (wearable) trends in fashion. Here’s a run-down of the top five in womenswear:

1. Grey

Every conceivable shade of grey was represented in nearly all the women’s collections. Whether this is a reflection of the gloomy times or merely a small side-step from that retail favourite black, the trick for it to read as “A/W 2012” is to wear grey head to toe. Altewai.Saome, Hernández-Cornet and Busnel are the perfect examples.

Altewai.Saome A/W 2012

2. Flatforms

Love ‘em or leave ‘em (I love ‘em), but I believe “flatforms” (flat platform shoes) pretty much personify Swedish fashion – they provide height without the hurt, and thereby stylishness without the vanity. While Whyred went British creepers-crazy, Cheap Monday, Minimarket and V Ave Shoe Repair all showed fantastic versions of their own.

V Ave Shoe Repair A/W 2012

3. Peplums

The dictionary calls it “a short overskirt or ruffle attached at the waistline of a jacket, blouse, or dress,” but I think of it as a curious flourish about the hips. Either way, I counted several collections with peplums, Carin Wester and Altewai.Saome being the main proponents. I can see its appeal: peplums visually narrow the waist and accentuate a woman’s curves.

Carin Wester A/W 2012

4. Floor-length skirts/dresses

It’s been awhile that we’ve seen skirts and dresses this long. But to keep it interesting (and sexy), most had thigh-high slits – Filippa K, Dagmar and newcomer Maria Nordström, especially. What I really like about this trend is that you can go glam with heels or comfy with flats. Maybe even the aforementioned flatforms?

Dagmar A/W 2012

5. Loose trousers/jeans

Could it be? Are we really moving away from skinny jeans and trousers? Judging by the A/W 2012 shows, the answer is a resounding “Yes!” Even Cheap Monday, the fervent purveyor of skin-tight denim switched things up and gave us the baggiest jeans possible, cinched high at the waist. Elsewhere, Rodebjer and Filippa K favoured fluid wide-leg trousers.

Cheap Monday A/W 2012

Other wonderful and weird things from Fashion Week:

  • Spike Lee was at the Dagmar show. Huh?
  • H&M held a show with the finalists of their first ever Design Award. The winner was Stine Riis.
  • Noomi Rapace opened Fashion Week with a ribbon-cutting ceremony and attended several shows.
  • Overheard: Really sunburned American guy #1: “DUDE, that’s the ORIGINAL Girl with the Dragon Tattoo.” Really sunburned American guy #2: “NO WAY!” Really sunburned American guy #1: “WAY.” Really sunburned American guy #2: “NO WAY!” Really sunburned American guy #1: “WAY.” (I walked away at this point. For all I know, it went on this way for a while.)

 

All photos by Kristian Löveborg, courtesy of the ASFB.

Sabrina Shim - Fashion

February 4, 2012

Design o’ the Times

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The future of Swedish design? (Melonia by Naim Josefi and Souzan Youssouf)

A common theme running through my last few posts has been the spreading influence of Swedish fashion worldwide. Another is that perhaps the perception of Swedish fashion as a one-trick pony (“cool minimalism”) should start being revised. Both are especially the case when you view contemporary Swedish fashion alongside its other design cousins: textiles, furniture, product design, graphic design, etc.

Let’s look at some internationally renowned Swedish design: Orrefors produce exquisite glass, but they are not afraid to push the boat out a little and even recently landed Karl Lagerfeld as a collaborator. Multi-disciplinary design studio Claesson Koivisto Rune believe in entertaining through design, which comes shining through in their furniture, lighting, buildings and interiors. Meanwhile, Svenskt Tenn and 10-gruppen – predominantly known for their textiles – allow bold colours, prints and whimsy to run riot. Do you feel that façade of Swedish same-ness crumbling yet?

In fact, diversity in Swedish design is being championed during the Design Festival in London that starts this weekend. Featuring various exhibitions, seminars and talks, Hemma: Swedish Design Goes London will explore the varied landscape of Swedish design now. First up, some 50 designers and companies (a good mix of established and up-and-coming) will be exhibiting their works at the home of the Swedish Ambassador. Special Library Talks will shed lights on the trends within Swedish design and architecture, while there will be several chances to have fika (Swedish for an informal gathering of friends for coffee, sweet treats and a chat) with individual designers and companies.

Hemma will also celebrate emerging designers with ung8, a juried selection of Sweden’s best young talents. From industrial design and furniture to ceramics and new concepts, ung8 represents the future of Swedish design. And whilst they aren’t going anywhere soon, a retrospective of Claesson Koivisto Rune will be held at the Skandium shop in Knightsbridge.

So what can we learn about Swedish fashion from Swedish design? If Hemma: Swedish Design Goes London has anything to do with it, it’s that diversity whilst maintaining a strong identity is key to winning over the world.

These Whyred x Folkform candleholders are part of the exhibition at the Residence of the Swedish Ambassador in London.

Hemma: Swedish Design Goes London runs from the 17th to the 25th of September and is a collaboration between the Swedish Institute, the Swedish Trade Council, Svensk Form and the Embassy of Sweden in London. Visit the website for locations, dates and opening times.


Sabrina Shim - Fashion

September 14, 2011

Home Swede Home

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A typical Swedish look? The Local Firm A/W 2011

“You’re not from around here, are you?” he asked.

“Uh, what do you mean?” I countered.

“Well, you’re wearing some pretty wild trainers.” He paused. “And too many colours.”

“Oh.”

We had only just moved to Stockholm and were out on a Saturday night getting acquainted with our new hometown, meeting new people, the whole lot. I thought that being Canadian-born, of Korean ancestry and going out with a boisterous Brit would give me away as a ‘foreigner’, but no. Apparently, it was a pair of Eley Kishimoto trainers and bright pink jacket over a printed dress that did it.

Fast forward four years and those beloved trainers sit at the back of the closet. What’s changed? Besides the inevitable – growing older, being sucked into certain trends – I’m only now realising that Sweden has actually had a profound effect on my personal style.

It is, of course, quite common to be influenced by the culture of the country you live in. Hence the crazy patterned trainers and slightly eclectic dress sense – I had lived in the UK for six years prior to the move. But in reality, my “London look” was not particularly different from my “New York look” or “Toronto look”, just revved up.

A T-shirt from my so-called London days.

Sweden, however, has changed me. Sure, the land of skinny jeans and the sea of head-to-toe black (or grey) at first made me: 1) get even skinnier jeans (Hello, Cheap Monday!); and 2) become self-conscious about my tendency towards prints and colour. But it’s the emphasis on wearability amongst the majority of Swedish labels that has affected the contents of my closet and, perhaps most importantly, my general attitude towards fashion.

I only want pieces that will work with the rest of my wardrobe. I want to be able to wear them on a daily basis. I’m tired of “occasion-dressing” and items that scream a certain season. I want timeless. I want season-less. I want good basics. Comfort is key. But I don’t want boring. I like clever design twists on classics. I love playing with proportions. “Effortless” is my byword.

Unsurprisingly, more established Swedish labels such as Acne, Whyred and Filippa K fit the bill perfectly. They’ve been advancing notions of wearability without forsaking style for years. And as they continue to expand across the globe, more and more people are cottoning on to this Swedish sensibility.

Alas, I never really abandoned my love of bright colours or prints. I’ve merely worked around it the past few years. So imagine my delight upon attending the S/S 2012 shows during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Stockholm a few weeks ago. Colour galore, and print upon glorious print. Particular standouts include Minimarket (yellow, head-to-toe florals and leopard print), Ida Sjöstedt (florals again and a delicious red) and Josefin Strid (ombre, turquoise and orange).

But if I had to pick one piece to wear straight off the runway, it was an oversized, bright pink knit hooded jumper at Carin Wester. Unlike the bright pink jacket I donned that fateful night four years ago, however, this jumper ticks all the boxes of my new “Swedified” personal style code.

Carin Wester S/S 2012 (Photo: Kristian Löveborg, courtesy of ASFB)

 

Sabrina Shim - Fashion

August 31, 2011

Not so much blue, not so much yellow

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A look from Ida Sjöstedt S/S 2011.

My colleague has just bought a new bag. It is neon pink and she says people are staring at her strangely here in Stockholm. This reminds me of when I was wearing a rain cape with a kaleidoscopic pattern. It felt like a provocation, an affront to everything that Swedish fashion stands for.

Black is of course the internationally approved fashion colour, and Swedish minimalist leanings make people opt for the colours that don’t stand out when choosing what to wear.

In a way it is strange, because the Scandinavian design tradition is full of colourful patterns and our textile and graphic design are bold, brash and boisterous. Just look at Svenskt Tenn and the patterns by Josef Frank or 10-gruppen and you will find that colour is very much a legacy of Swedish design.

In fashion and clothes, the preferred colour combinations range from black, white and beige, to navy blue and grey. It is muted rather than loud and it makes for a cool and refined style. Patterns are avoided.

But there are designers who break with the reigning mood. Take Ida Sjöstedt for example. She launched her label in 2001 and has shown on schedule in Stockholm ever since. Sjöstedt describes her design philosophy as “tasteful kitsch”, the latter word not often being part of the Swedish fashion vocabulary.

Sometimes it amazes me that she has continued designing, enduring the minimalist cool of Sweden and even prospering. These days the Ida Sjöstedt line is doing better than ever, having launched a made-to-measure line and becoming somewhat of a fashion blog favourite with her latest gilded and laced spring collection. She might be a rare bird, but people like her makes the Swedish fashion scene richer.

That colour is not anathema any longer in Swedish fashion was also evident during the last fashion week, when both Rodebjer and Whyred showed strong and bright colours. Maybe my colleague’s neon pink bag won’t turn that many heads come autumn.

Daniel Björk - Fashion

April 4, 2011