Tag archives for Rodebjer

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Stockholm A/W 2012: Womenswear Trend Report

Over a hectic three days earlier this week, the A/W 2012 edition of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week took place in Stockholm. We scampered from one show to the next and scrounged for food when we had a few spare minutes, but once we settled into the venue and the lights were dimmed, the excitement of what’s to come on the runway made it all worthwhile.

With more and more international eyes turning towards Sweden for the latest in nonchalant style and clothes people will actually wear out of the house, the shows provide a glimpse of the next big (wearable) trends in fashion. Here’s a run-down of the top five in womenswear:

1. Grey

Every conceivable shade of grey was represented in nearly all the women’s collections. Whether this is a reflection of the gloomy times or merely a small side-step from that retail favourite black, the trick for it to read as “A/W 2012” is to wear grey head to toe. Altewai.Saome, Hernández-Cornet and Busnel are the perfect examples.

Altewai.Saome A/W 2012

2. Flatforms

Love ‘em or leave ‘em (I love ‘em), but I believe “flatforms” (flat platform shoes) pretty much personify Swedish fashion – they provide height without the hurt, and thereby stylishness without the vanity. While Whyred went British creepers-crazy, Cheap Monday, Minimarket and V Ave Shoe Repair all showed fantastic versions of their own.

V Ave Shoe Repair A/W 2012

3. Peplums

The dictionary calls it “a short overskirt or ruffle attached at the waistline of a jacket, blouse, or dress,” but I think of it as a curious flourish about the hips. Either way, I counted several collections with peplums, Carin Wester and Altewai.Saome being the main proponents. I can see its appeal: peplums visually narrow the waist and accentuate a woman’s curves.

Carin Wester A/W 2012

4. Floor-length skirts/dresses

It’s been awhile that we’ve seen skirts and dresses this long. But to keep it interesting (and sexy), most had thigh-high slits – Filippa K, Dagmar and newcomer Maria Nordström, especially. What I really like about this trend is that you can go glam with heels or comfy with flats. Maybe even the aforementioned flatforms?

Dagmar A/W 2012

5. Loose trousers/jeans

Could it be? Are we really moving away from skinny jeans and trousers? Judging by the A/W 2012 shows, the answer is a resounding “Yes!” Even Cheap Monday, the fervent purveyor of skin-tight denim switched things up and gave us the baggiest jeans possible, cinched high at the waist. Elsewhere, Rodebjer and Filippa K favoured fluid wide-leg trousers.

Cheap Monday A/W 2012

Other wonderful and weird things from Fashion Week:

  • Spike Lee was at the Dagmar show. Huh?
  • H&M held a show with the finalists of their first ever Design Award. The winner was Stine Riis.
  • Noomi Rapace opened Fashion Week with a ribbon-cutting ceremony and attended several shows.
  • Overheard: Really sunburned American guy #1: “DUDE, that’s the ORIGINAL Girl with the Dragon Tattoo.” Really sunburned American guy #2: “NO WAY!” Really sunburned American guy #1: “WAY.” Really sunburned American guy #2: “NO WAY!” Really sunburned American guy #1: “WAY.” (I walked away at this point. For all I know, it went on this way for a while.)

 

All photos by Kristian Löveborg, courtesy of the ASFB.

A/W 2012 Stockholm Fashion Week: A Preview

From Maria Nordström's upcoming "Purgatory" collection (photo: Maria Nordström)

In exactly twelve days from today, Autumn/Winter 2012 fashion week will descend upon Stockholm. While I’m still weirded out by the fact that whilst we’re in the midst of winter, we’ll be looking at clothes that’ll be worn twelve months from now (gotta love the long Swedish winter!), I’m excited nonetheless. Here’s a highly personal selection of shows that I think will make the most impact: Read more » >>

Not so much blue, not so much yellow

A look from Ida Sjöstedt S/S 2011.

My colleague has just bought a new bag. It is neon pink and she says people are staring at her strangely here in Stockholm. This reminds me of when I was wearing a rain cape with a kaleidoscopic pattern. It felt like a provocation, an affront to everything that Swedish fashion stands for.

Black is of course the internationally approved fashion colour, and Swedish minimalist leanings make people opt for the colours that don’t stand out when choosing what to wear.

In a way it is strange, because the Scandinavian design tradition is full of colourful patterns and our textile and graphic design are bold, brash and boisterous. Just look at Svenskt Tenn and the patterns by Josef Frank or 10-gruppen and you will find that colour is very much a legacy of Swedish design.

In fashion and clothes, the preferred colour combinations range from black, white and beige, to navy blue and grey. It is muted rather than loud and it makes for a cool and refined style. Patterns are avoided.

But there are designers who break with the reigning mood. Take Ida Sjöstedt for example. She launched her label in 2001 and has shown on schedule in Stockholm ever since. Sjöstedt describes her design philosophy as “tasteful kitsch”, the latter word not often being part of the Swedish fashion vocabulary.

Sometimes it amazes me that she has continued designing, enduring the minimalist cool of Sweden and even prospering. These days the Ida Sjöstedt line is doing better than ever, having launched a made-to-measure line and becoming somewhat of a fashion blog favourite with her latest gilded and laced spring collection. She might be a rare bird, but people like her makes the Swedish fashion scene richer.

That colour is not anathema any longer in Swedish fashion was also evident during the last fashion week, when both Rodebjer and Whyred showed strong and bright colours. Maybe my colleague’s neon pink bag won’t turn that many heads come autumn.

Nike Felldin, 20

I was looking forward to Rodebjer´s show in the Fashion Week, their last collection were fantastic.