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Tag archives for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Stockholm

MBFW Stockholm A/W 2012: Ones to Watch

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Judging from the variety of international press (The Daily Telegraph’s Hilary Alexander!) and buyers, the question that running through everyone’s head last week at fashion week in Stockholm probably was, “Who’s going to be the next Acne?” So while dust has barely settled on the A/W 2012 shows, let’s have a look at a few new names in womenswear we should all keep on eye on.

1. Johanna Pihl

Recent graduate of the London College of Fashion and last year’s winner of the Young Fashion Industry award, Johanna Pihl staged her first full-fledged and independent show for A/W 2012. Inspired by the interior design of 18th-century royal palaces but seen through a modern minimalist filter, the result was sleek separates and a colour palette of mainly white, black and gold. Pihl favours body-conscious tailoring and so will appeal to women who appreciate simplicity but with a little edge.

Johanna Pihl A/W 2012

2. Hernández-Cornet

While not “new” in the strictest sense, I suspect many would be hard pressed to invoke this Stockholm-based label when talking about great Swedish designers of the moment. After a standout S/S 2012 collection, Hernández-Cornet did not disappoint with their autumn/winter follow-up. In fact, the chic leather apron dresses, hooded tops and long yet lean silhouettes had the room positively buzzing afterwards. Which hopefully will translate into wider recognition of the label in Sweden and eventually, of course, abroad.

Hernández-Cornet A/W 2012

3. Maria Nordström

The first collection of this avant-garde designer provided welcome relief to a fashion week that many would only associate with casual cool. Influenced by “Catholic ambivalence, where the catwalk is our purgatory,” the visionary Maria Nordström created feminine and sculptural pieces that called to mind such international designers as Rick Owens and Martin Margiela. But don’t let the drama fool you – these are meant to be utterly wearable, as well.

Maria Nordström A/W 2012

All photos by Kristian Löveborg, courtesy of the ASFB.

Sabrina Shim - Fashion

February 7, 2012

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Stockholm A/W 2012: Menswear Trend Report

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The fashion circus is over for this time as you know having read Sabrina’s post from yesterday and as hectic as they are (especially if you are, as I was, reviewing some of the shows over at Bon.se and trying to get the review up within two hours) they are also great fun.

In many ways Sweden’s men are the true fashionistas of Sweden, so a proper look at what was happening over the three days that go under the name of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Stockholm needs to include the biggest fashion trends for male consumers.

Ubi Sunt A/W 2012

1. Turtle necks

On the first day of the week, at Filippa K Man, designer Morgan Sundberg explained to me that the turtle neck was back. His words were to be proven true in almost every menswear show over the following days and worn in any way possible from chunky, as at Whyred and Boomerang, to thin, as at Ubi Sunt, or in between: Oscar Jacobson.

J. Lindeberg A/W 2012

2. Quilted

Techno looks were mixed up with more natural-looking materials and the synthetic vibe often came in the way of quilts. Most innovative were J. Lindeberg who showed quilted cargo shorts worn over trousers or leggings, but the material were spotted at Josefin Strid, Boomerang, The Local Firm and V Ave Shoe Repair.

Whyred AW 2012

3. Sixties silhouette

It’s the Mad Men influence that keeps trousers cropped and suits sharp. It was no wonder that it was the mod aficionados at Whyred who did the look in its most clear way, but the cropped trouser suit turned up at Oscar Jacobson and Tiger of Sweden as well.

Josefin Strid A/W 2012

4. Eastern influence

Most obviously seen at the Cheap Monday show where jumpers were wrapped around heads in a way reminiscent of Afghani mujaheddin, Eastern dress styles kept being alluded to throughout the week. Long shirts, reminiscent of the Pakistani kameez were seen at Carin Wester while sarongs popped up at Josefin Strid.

Oscar Jacobson A/W 2012

5. Dandy

The autumn in many ways seem a bit more dressed up than previously, it was a trend we could see at the international shows and it was also evident here in Stockholm. Capes at Oscar Jacobson, Karl Lagerfeld collars at Ubi Sunt and all-grey double-breasted ensembles at Carin Wester – it signals a move away from the more outdoorsy urban looks we’ve seen recently.

V Ave Shoe Repair A/W 2012

6. Styling

In a couple of shows there was a return of styling as a way of making clothes look fresh and interesting. It signalled that fashion designers think we should have some fun with the clothes and adapt them, turn them around and wear them in unexpected ways. This was seen as Cheap Monday, V Ave Shoe Repair and The Local Firm.

All photos by Kristian Löveborg, courtesy of the ASFB.

 

Daniel Björk - Fashion

February 5, 2012

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Stockholm A/W 2012: Womenswear Trend Report

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Over a hectic three days earlier this week, the A/W 2012 edition of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week took place in Stockholm. We scampered from one show to the next and scrounged for food when we had a few spare minutes, but once we settled into the venue and the lights were dimmed, the excitement of what’s to come on the runway made it all worthwhile.

With more and more international eyes turning towards Sweden for the latest in nonchalant style and clothes people will actually wear out of the house, the shows provide a glimpse of the next big (wearable) trends in fashion. Here’s a run-down of the top five in womenswear:

1. Grey

Every conceivable shade of grey was represented in nearly all the women’s collections. Whether this is a reflection of the gloomy times or merely a small side-step from that retail favourite black, the trick for it to read as “A/W 2012” is to wear grey head to toe. Altewai.Saome, Hernández-Cornet and Busnel are the perfect examples.

Altewai.Saome A/W 2012

2. Flatforms

Love ‘em or leave ‘em (I love ‘em), but I believe “flatforms” (flat platform shoes) pretty much personify Swedish fashion – they provide height without the hurt, and thereby stylishness without the vanity. While Whyred went British creepers-crazy, Cheap Monday, Minimarket and V Ave Shoe Repair all showed fantastic versions of their own.

V Ave Shoe Repair A/W 2012

3. Peplums

The dictionary calls it “a short overskirt or ruffle attached at the waistline of a jacket, blouse, or dress,” but I think of it as a curious flourish about the hips. Either way, I counted several collections with peplums, Carin Wester and Altewai.Saome being the main proponents. I can see its appeal: peplums visually narrow the waist and accentuate a woman’s curves.

Carin Wester A/W 2012

4. Floor-length skirts/dresses

It’s been awhile that we’ve seen skirts and dresses this long. But to keep it interesting (and sexy), most had thigh-high slits – Filippa K, Dagmar and newcomer Maria Nordström, especially. What I really like about this trend is that you can go glam with heels or comfy with flats. Maybe even the aforementioned flatforms?

Dagmar A/W 2012

5. Loose trousers/jeans

Could it be? Are we really moving away from skinny jeans and trousers? Judging by the A/W 2012 shows, the answer is a resounding “Yes!” Even Cheap Monday, the fervent purveyor of skin-tight denim switched things up and gave us the baggiest jeans possible, cinched high at the waist. Elsewhere, Rodebjer and Filippa K favoured fluid wide-leg trousers.

Cheap Monday A/W 2012

Other wonderful and weird things from Fashion Week:

  • Spike Lee was at the Dagmar show. Huh?
  • H&M held a show with the finalists of their first ever Design Award. The winner was Stine Riis.
  • Noomi Rapace opened Fashion Week with a ribbon-cutting ceremony and attended several shows.
  • Overheard: Really sunburned American guy #1: “DUDE, that’s the ORIGINAL Girl with the Dragon Tattoo.” Really sunburned American guy #2: “NO WAY!” Really sunburned American guy #1: “WAY.” Really sunburned American guy #2: “NO WAY!” Really sunburned American guy #1: “WAY.” (I walked away at this point. For all I know, it went on this way for a while.)

 

All photos by Kristian Löveborg, courtesy of the ASFB.

Sabrina Shim - Fashion

February 4, 2012

The importance of being earnest

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A piece from Acne's pre-fall 2012 collection, showing that mid price fashion can be just as creative as luxury fashion. Photo: Acne

 

During the last decade luxury fashion prices have rocketed and what was once the upper end is now standard fare – a particularly embellished dress or jacket can cost €10000 and upwards. It’s prêt-à-porter with couture prices.

The Swedish market sees very little of this. There has been some Balmain sold in Stockholm, but should we look at Swedish brands they have almost in unison decided to occupy the middle ground. The Swedish fashion consumer is demanding in her own peculiar way. She wants trendy, fashionable clothes, but without having to pay premium prices. It is a winning formula internationally too – the mid price section is where all the action is at the moment in the fashion world and in a way it is an extension of the democratic vision of budget high street fashion, with the addition that these customers are more informed, more fashion-forward and a bit more willing to part with their hard-earned cash.

At the same time, many of the Swedish brands have realised they have to raise their price level abroad. What is mid price in Sweden comes across as budget on other markets – and not in a good way.

For many years there has been a discussion (in Sweden) about what Swedish fashion should be. I think the answer is pretty clear. While London is about talent and experimentation, Milan about luxury and Paris about creativity, Stockholm’s fashion week – officially called Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Stockholm – is about accessibility.

Personally, I believe the Swedish price points are just right for what anyone who isn’t extremely affluent should pay for good fashion, and sometimes I find that even Swedish mid price equals “overpriced”. But in general, you get a lot of fashion for the money. It comes across as honest and, especially now that luxury pricing is out of control, there is certainly a need for honest pricing.

After all, looking good shouldn’t be all about money.

Daniel Björk - Fashion

January 27, 2012

A/W 2012 Stockholm Fashion Week: A Preview

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From Maria Nordström's upcoming "Purgatory" collection (photo: Maria Nordström)

In exactly twelve days from today, Autumn/Winter 2012 fashion week will descend upon Stockholm. While I’m still weirded out by the fact that whilst we’re in the midst of winter, we’ll be looking at clothes that’ll be worn twelve months from now (gotta love the long Swedish winter!), I’m excited nonetheless. Here’s a highly personal selection of shows that I think will make the most impact: Read more » >>

Sabrina Shim - Fashion

January 18, 2012