Judging from the variety of international press (The Daily Telegraph’s Hilary Alexander!) and buyers, the question that running through everyone’s head last week at fashion week in Stockholm probably was, “Who’s going to be the next Acne?” So while dust has barely settled on the A/W 2012 shows, let’s have a look at a few new names in womenswear we should all keep on eye on.
1. Johanna Pihl
Recent graduate of the London College of Fashion and last year’s winner of the Young Fashion Industry award, Johanna Pihl staged her first full-fledged and independent show for A/W 2012. Inspired by the interior design of 18th-century royal palaces but seen through a modern minimalist filter, the result was sleek separates and a colour palette of mainly white, black and gold. Pihl favours body-conscious tailoring and so will appeal to women who appreciate simplicity but with a little edge.
While not “new” in the strictest sense, I suspect many would be hard pressed to invoke this Stockholm-based label when talking about great Swedish designers of the moment. After a standout S/S 2012 collection, Hernández-Cornet did not disappoint with their autumn/winter follow-up. In fact, the chic leather apron dresses, hooded tops and long yet lean silhouettes had the room positively buzzing afterwards. Which hopefully will translate into wider recognition of the label in Sweden and eventually, of course, abroad.
3. Maria Nordström
The first collection of this avant-garde designer provided welcome relief to a fashion week that many would only associate with casual cool. Influenced by “Catholic ambivalence, where the catwalk is our purgatory,” the visionary Maria Nordström created feminine and sculptural pieces that called to mind such international designers as Rick Owens and Martin Margiela. But don’t let the drama fool you – these are meant to be utterly wearable, as well.
All photos by Kristian Löveborg, courtesy of the ASFB.