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One of the fashion-y widgets available on the Stockholm-based Bloglovin'

Last week, hot on the heels of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Stockholm, CNN ran a story about Swedish fashion. It spoke mainly about the country’s rising export sales, due mainly to brands such as H&M, Acne, Cheap Monday, Tiger and J.Lindeberg, but it was the end of the article that piqued my interest the most.

Quoting street style photographer Yvan Rodic of The Facehunter, apparently Sweden’s blogging culture has contributed to its global success. A blogger phenomenon himself, Rodic says, “Sweden is a pioneering country when it comes to blogging. In the last decade, people from around the world have started looking at Swedish blogs for inspiration – mostly to enjoy the photos since they don’t necessarily understand the language.” Read more »

Sabrina Shim - Fashion

February 13, 2012

The Swede who ruled the world

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B. Åkerlund and one of Madonna's headpieces from the show. Photo: PRNewsFoto/B. Akerlund

 

It was the most anticipated performance of the year and everyone wanted to see what she would be wearing. When Madonna stepped onto the stage at the Super Bowl half-time performance in a Roman centurion’s outfit designed by the brilliant Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy it safe to say that fashionistas all over the world almost wet themselves with excitement.

But behind every superstar there is a super stylist and in this case, that stylist is Swedish – cue fireworks and celebrations. B Åkerlund has worked with the most famous pop stars of today, including Lady Gaga, Rihanna and Black Eyed Peas, but said about Madonna’s Super Bowl performance that it “was by far the biggest challenge I have ever taken on in my career, and I could not be more honoured to be a part of such an amazing and historical event. […] Nothing could ever come close to working with Madonna on this Super Bowl performance, her attention to detail and commitment to all of her projects is truly inspiring and life changing.”

It was clearly a mammoth undertaking with 500 costumes for everyone from the Material Girl herself to LMFAO, Cee-Lo Green, Nicki Minaj and M.I.A, as well as 100 drum line performers, 150 gladiators and 200 choir singers.

Originally from Stockholm B. Åkerlund left for Los Angeles when she was 14. Since then she’s clocked up an impressive roster of music videos, often in tandem with her director husband Jonas Åkerlund, as well as styling world tours for Black Eyed Peas and Robbie Williams.

She is known for over-the-top dramatic styling and dramatic outfits from the most forward-thinking of today’s designers – an aesthetic that might not seem very Swedish but that works perfectly in the world of superstar music.

And for the Super Bowl performance it fit like a glove, giving classics such as Vogue, Music and Like A Prayer a backdrop of Roman, Egyptian, ecclesiastical and high school influences. Spelled out like that I’m not sure it makes sense but on stage and on TV it sure did. Watch it on YouTube if you don’t believe me.

Daniel Björk - Fashion

February 10, 2012

MBFW Stockholm A/W 2012: Ones to Watch

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Judging from the variety of international press (The Daily Telegraph’s Hilary Alexander!) and buyers, the question that running through everyone’s head last week at fashion week in Stockholm probably was, “Who’s going to be the next Acne?” So while dust has barely settled on the A/W 2012 shows, let’s have a look at a few new names in womenswear we should all keep on eye on.

1. Johanna Pihl

Recent graduate of the London College of Fashion and last year’s winner of the Young Fashion Industry award, Johanna Pihl staged her first full-fledged and independent show for A/W 2012. Inspired by the interior design of 18th-century royal palaces but seen through a modern minimalist filter, the result was sleek separates and a colour palette of mainly white, black and gold. Pihl favours body-conscious tailoring and so will appeal to women who appreciate simplicity but with a little edge.

Johanna Pihl A/W 2012

2. Hernández-Cornet

While not “new” in the strictest sense, I suspect many would be hard pressed to invoke this Stockholm-based label when talking about great Swedish designers of the moment. After a standout S/S 2012 collection, Hernández-Cornet did not disappoint with their autumn/winter follow-up. In fact, the chic leather apron dresses, hooded tops and long yet lean silhouettes had the room positively buzzing afterwards. Which hopefully will translate into wider recognition of the label in Sweden and eventually, of course, abroad.

Hernández-Cornet A/W 2012

3. Maria Nordström

The first collection of this avant-garde designer provided welcome relief to a fashion week that many would only associate with casual cool. Influenced by “Catholic ambivalence, where the catwalk is our purgatory,” the visionary Maria Nordström created feminine and sculptural pieces that called to mind such international designers as Rick Owens and Martin Margiela. But don’t let the drama fool you – these are meant to be utterly wearable, as well.

Maria Nordström A/W 2012

All photos by Kristian Löveborg, courtesy of the ASFB.

Sabrina Shim - Fashion

February 7, 2012

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Stockholm A/W 2012: Menswear Trend Report

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The fashion circus is over for this time as you know having read Sabrina’s post from yesterday and as hectic as they are (especially if you are, as I was, reviewing some of the shows over at Bon.se and trying to get the review up within two hours) they are also great fun.

In many ways Sweden’s men are the true fashionistas of Sweden, so a proper look at what was happening over the three days that go under the name of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Stockholm needs to include the biggest fashion trends for male consumers.

Ubi Sunt A/W 2012

1. Turtle necks

On the first day of the week, at Filippa K Man, designer Morgan Sundberg explained to me that the turtle neck was back. His words were to be proven true in almost every menswear show over the following days and worn in any way possible from chunky, as at Whyred and Boomerang, to thin, as at Ubi Sunt, or in between: Oscar Jacobson.

J. Lindeberg A/W 2012

2. Quilted

Techno looks were mixed up with more natural-looking materials and the synthetic vibe often came in the way of quilts. Most innovative were J. Lindeberg who showed quilted cargo shorts worn over trousers or leggings, but the material were spotted at Josefin Strid, Boomerang, The Local Firm and V Ave Shoe Repair.

Whyred AW 2012

3. Sixties silhouette

It’s the Mad Men influence that keeps trousers cropped and suits sharp. It was no wonder that it was the mod aficionados at Whyred who did the look in its most clear way, but the cropped trouser suit turned up at Oscar Jacobson and Tiger of Sweden as well.

Josefin Strid A/W 2012

4. Eastern influence

Most obviously seen at the Cheap Monday show where jumpers were wrapped around heads in a way reminiscent of Afghani mujaheddin, Eastern dress styles kept being alluded to throughout the week. Long shirts, reminiscent of the Pakistani kameez were seen at Carin Wester while sarongs popped up at Josefin Strid.

Oscar Jacobson A/W 2012

5. Dandy

The autumn in many ways seem a bit more dressed up than previously, it was a trend we could see at the international shows and it was also evident here in Stockholm. Capes at Oscar Jacobson, Karl Lagerfeld collars at Ubi Sunt and all-grey double-breasted ensembles at Carin Wester – it signals a move away from the more outdoorsy urban looks we’ve seen recently.

V Ave Shoe Repair A/W 2012

6. Styling

In a couple of shows there was a return of styling as a way of making clothes look fresh and interesting. It signalled that fashion designers think we should have some fun with the clothes and adapt them, turn them around and wear them in unexpected ways. This was seen as Cheap Monday, V Ave Shoe Repair and The Local Firm.

All photos by Kristian Löveborg, courtesy of the ASFB.

 

Daniel Björk - Fashion

February 5, 2012

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Stockholm A/W 2012: Womenswear Trend Report

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Over a hectic three days earlier this week, the A/W 2012 edition of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week took place in Stockholm. We scampered from one show to the next and scrounged for food when we had a few spare minutes, but once we settled into the venue and the lights were dimmed, the excitement of what’s to come on the runway made it all worthwhile.

With more and more international eyes turning towards Sweden for the latest in nonchalant style and clothes people will actually wear out of the house, the shows provide a glimpse of the next big (wearable) trends in fashion. Here’s a run-down of the top five in womenswear:

1. Grey

Every conceivable shade of grey was represented in nearly all the women’s collections. Whether this is a reflection of the gloomy times or merely a small side-step from that retail favourite black, the trick for it to read as “A/W 2012” is to wear grey head to toe. Altewai.Saome, Hernández-Cornet and Busnel are the perfect examples.

Altewai.Saome A/W 2012

2. Flatforms

Love ‘em or leave ‘em (I love ‘em), but I believe “flatforms” (flat platform shoes) pretty much personify Swedish fashion – they provide height without the hurt, and thereby stylishness without the vanity. While Whyred went British creepers-crazy, Cheap Monday, Minimarket and V Ave Shoe Repair all showed fantastic versions of their own.

V Ave Shoe Repair A/W 2012

3. Peplums

The dictionary calls it “a short overskirt or ruffle attached at the waistline of a jacket, blouse, or dress,” but I think of it as a curious flourish about the hips. Either way, I counted several collections with peplums, Carin Wester and Altewai.Saome being the main proponents. I can see its appeal: peplums visually narrow the waist and accentuate a woman’s curves.

Carin Wester A/W 2012

4. Floor-length skirts/dresses

It’s been awhile that we’ve seen skirts and dresses this long. But to keep it interesting (and sexy), most had thigh-high slits – Filippa K, Dagmar and newcomer Maria Nordström, especially. What I really like about this trend is that you can go glam with heels or comfy with flats. Maybe even the aforementioned flatforms?

Dagmar A/W 2012

5. Loose trousers/jeans

Could it be? Are we really moving away from skinny jeans and trousers? Judging by the A/W 2012 shows, the answer is a resounding “Yes!” Even Cheap Monday, the fervent purveyor of skin-tight denim switched things up and gave us the baggiest jeans possible, cinched high at the waist. Elsewhere, Rodebjer and Filippa K favoured fluid wide-leg trousers.

Cheap Monday A/W 2012

Other wonderful and weird things from Fashion Week:

  • Spike Lee was at the Dagmar show. Huh?
  • H&M held a show with the finalists of their first ever Design Award. The winner was Stine Riis.
  • Noomi Rapace opened Fashion Week with a ribbon-cutting ceremony and attended several shows.
  • Overheard: Really sunburned American guy #1: “DUDE, that’s the ORIGINAL Girl with the Dragon Tattoo.” Really sunburned American guy #2: “NO WAY!” Really sunburned American guy #1: “WAY.” Really sunburned American guy #2: “NO WAY!” Really sunburned American guy #1: “WAY.” (I walked away at this point. For all I know, it went on this way for a while.)

 

All photos by Kristian Löveborg, courtesy of the ASFB.

Sabrina Shim - Fashion

February 4, 2012