Attainable "designer" fashion in Sweden: J.Lindeberg A/W 2012 (photo by Kristian Löveborg, courtesy of the ASFB)

Later this year, in May, I will have lived in Sweden for five whole years. In fashion terms, that’s ten seasons and so, nearly an eternity. Many a thing said in jest, as the saying goes, and though on one hand, I’m being flippant, on the other it does makes me wonder how this has affected my view of fashion and, to a lesser degree, my wardrobe.

1. Fashion egalitarianism

The rising prices of Acne aside, the cost of “designer” items made by Swedish labels are pretty equal across the board, with prices normally topping out at 3500 kronor for items such as tailored blazers or silk dresses. Only a few items hover over the 5000 kronor mark. In the international retail market, most of these labels are considered “mid-price”, while from an editorial point of view, a relative bargain for the amount of good design and wearability in the garments.

My point is that designer items in Sweden are not so out of reach to the average person compared to, say Italy. And of course, more affordable and still fashionable clothing can always been found on our doorstep, whether it’s from trend-led H&M, quirky Monki, edgy Weekday or minimalist-luxe COS (all owned by H&M), and other home-grown high street labels.

Having visited a few of the “fashion capitals” recently, I’ve come to appreciate more and more the egalitarianism of Swedish fashion. Being stylish in this country has nothing to do with money or class, and I find that particularly refreshing and admirable. This will probably strike many as common sense, but I’m afraid this is not always the case in the fashion industry.

2. The art of being understated

Swedes – so cool and minimalist. Or at least that’s the overwhelming stereotype when one talks about Swedish fashion. On a personal level, I have toned down my style since moving here. For instance, the love affair with black clothing: Before I moved to Sweden, I didn’t even own a single pair of black shoes. Or a black blazer. Now I own several. In general, surveying my wardrobe over the weekend, there is a lot of black. Coincidence? Maybe… Regardless, I have learned about the power of subtlety from my time here, and more importantly, despite my penchant for prints and bright colours, I like it.

This is my last post for Sweden.se for the time being, as well. Thanks for reading!

Seebright, a jacket made of synthetic fibres, polyamide, Gore-Tex and then coated with a thermo-chromic and fluorescent material. At over 27 degrees it changes colour. Photo: Håkan Lindgren

What’s in store for Swedish fashion in the future? After all, we might have a successful high street and mid price sector, but what more?

It is sometimes claimed that innovation in fashion really comes from new research in textile production. One reason that Italy is still so successful as a fashion country is because of the expertise in creating incredibly sophisticated textiles that can be found in the country.

In Sweden, as with many countries, the manufacturing part of the fashion business came to a halt in the 1970s. There are still remnants of the industry, and logistical knowledge is still strong, but the bigger factories are gone.

This leads me to believe that the future of manufacturing is probably somewhere else, both geographically and technically.

Smart Textiles is a project based at The Swedish School of Textiles in Borås. It aims to connect companies and researchers in order to create the textiles of tomorrow.

Sweden has always been a country of innovators and risk-takers. From dynamite to the zipper, we just love to come up with new stuff (some of it more useful and peaceful than other things).

So let me introduce you to what Sweden seems to think is the next frontier in textiles (and now I am not talking about the knitted blood vessel). Glowing textiles, patterns that appear when you sit on them, materials that cool you down, a carpet that lights up when you step on it. All these textiles may not make it into clothes and are perhaps better suited for furniture design (and sometimes things like these can seem a bit gimmicky). But here is a real possibility for a happy marriage between Swedish fashion’s love of functionality and practicality and the Swedish innovative spirit.

At the moment it seems the companies working with Smart Textiles are not the major fashion companies in the country, but rather specialist, niche interests. If Acne, Tiger of Sweden, Cheap Monday and Hope sat down with the researchers, perhaps new and wonderful materials would be invented. It might be a high-heeled, sexy shoe that could be worn in slush. Another idea would be a knitted jumper that gets more warm as the temperature drops. All these are on my wish list (OK, perhaps not the high heeled shoes but I’m looking out for the ladeez). So, get working guys!

With this blog post I bid you good-bye, at least for this time. Thanks for reading!

Will Swedish fashion for kids have an upswing now that we've got a royal baby? Photo: Charlie Lee

I have a somewhat cool relationship with the Swedish – and Norwegian – royals (google me and see that I’ve been “slating” the style credentials of both princess Madelaine and princess Mette-Marit). But I have once met Crown Princess Victoria and must say I have a lot of respect for her; she’s extremely professional.

It can’t have escaped anyone that a royal baby has been delivered in Sweden and that her name is Estelle. She will soon be Sweden’s most fashionable baby.

This also seem to be what fashion companies are banking on. I might be harking on about Björn Borg, but this time it’s unavoidable since the company is launching a royal baby collection, in essence baby blue and pink babygros with crowns on them.

The market for upmarket baby and childrens clothes is increasingly seen as the next luxury segment to take off. Add royal babies to the mix (apart form Sweden there’s a new baby in Denmark and of course everyone is waiting for the British royals to confirm the rumours that the Duchess of Cambridge is indeed pregnant).

Sweden has at least one major kids brand and that is Polarn O. Pyret, known mainly for their stripes, and their graphic, clean, design-y look – but brands such as Acne also make clothes for children.

The most interesting scenario though is the growth of high quality clothes in the mid price sector, with a minimalist aesthetic or otherwise high design factor – mirroring the success of adult Swedish fashion brands. It might not be Marni for kids, but then again there will be a huge market for aspirational kids’ clothing (even larger than today). Among the Swedish brands that might be on everyone’s kids are Charlie Lee, by fashion veteran Lena Wallensteen, Modéerska Huset, a collection of colourful sustainable children’s wear, the ballerina flats by Mina, Mini Rodini, by Cassandra Rhodin who is a well-known fashion illustrator, and the slow clothing brand LUDD.

No matter what happens, that baby is going to be made into an aspirational fashion baby. That’s just how media work. I’m predicting a “get the royal baby look” article after her first appearance.

Odd Molly A/W 2012 (photo by Kristian Löveborg, courtesy of the ASFB)

For all the talk about “Scandinavian cool” in the fashion circles (and of course, on this blog, too) – minimalist, utilitarian, limited colour palette, not-trying-too-hard – and the international success of labels that champion said looks, such as Acne, Cheap Monday and COS, there is a flipside.

I’m talking about bucket loads of colour, the propensity for ditsy floral patterns and embellishments like embroidery, fringing and ruffles. Wait, am I seriously nattering on about a Swedish fashion label? Yes, I sure am. Specifically the Stockholm-based mass-market retailer Odd Molly, who recently celebrated their 10-year anniversary at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week and, judging by their numbers, has steadily been taking the world by storm, too.

Odd Molly is currently available in over 1300 stores in over 40 countries. Compare that to H&M’s 2300 stores (albeit their own) in over 43 countries. Pretty impressive for a label that truthfully, most in the fashion industry outside of Sweden would be hard-pressed to identify as Swedish. And that’s the thing.

Is France really full of chic women wearing no more than Breton tops, trench coats and ballerina flats? Or is Italy awash with only glamorous Sofia Loren-types? No, of course not, and Sweden shouldn’t have to be pigeon-holed into that “cool-casual” stereotype either.

I’ve spoken about the quirky side of Swedish fashion before, and though it’s tempting to slot Odd Molly into that category, as well, I think there is a larger picture to be seen. Although it’s important to have “high fashion” or trend-led concepts, as forwarded by the usual faces of Swedish fashion, sometimes people just want clothes that make them… well, happy. And with their unabashedly cheerful outlook along with a multi-generation approach, Odd Molly definitely taps into that need. And the Swedish fashion scene is all the better for it, I say.

The invitation to the Björn Borg show. Photo: Björn Borg

A lot of my time, I’m not in Sweden, but in London. And when you get to the international scene, Sweden could sometimes seem a bit… hm… peripheral. At least it used to be that way. Because these days Swedish fashion is absolutely everywhere. London Fashion Week kicks off tonight with the opening of the new Cheap Monday store on Carnaby Street, while Björn Borg, the underwear brand, is putting on a fashion show at Battersea Power Station complete with performances by Robyn and Coco Sumner. This fashion show extravaganza will be livestreamed on MTV.co.uk.

Acne is showing their women’s wear line in London since a couple of season and it is one of the hottest tickets in town – the spring collection had the critics fawning and is sure to be another hit for the brand.

A few days ago, the Guardian ran an article about how “Scandinavian brands made ‘anti-cool’ fashionable”. Because behind Acne there are a lot of Swedish brands quietly moving onto the shelves of international stores. I noticed it myself where I lived until just a week ago, Windsor. In the more fashion-forward men’s stores in the town, Swedish brands were ubiquitous. From Acne to Our Legacy and Cheap Monday. These days even and old school geeky brand such as Fjällräven has some serious fashion cred. In fact, my intern here at Bon’s London office has one and she’s studying at Central Saint Martins.

To me, the success of Swedish fashion has a lot to do with the way style has moved into our everyday life in the last decade or so. Fashion is not just for parties or for the aristocracy; it is for everyone and every time, so what used to be Sweden’s Achilles heal is now its foremost strength. Having gotten used to making the most out of dressing for the Swedish weather and paired this knowledge with the practicality of Sweden’s fashion consumers (everything needs to be able to be washed in the washing machine, it shouldn’t cost too much, it should last a few seasons), Swedish fashion designers are well equipped for this new brave fashion world where we want to look fashionable all the time – yet still be presentable, professional and practical.

True, Swedish fashion is not only about this, but I believe this to be the core. And these days, when everyone talks about brand DNA, I think we can safely say that Swedish fashion has got it nailed.

One of the fashion-y widgets available on the Stockholm-based Bloglovin'

Last week, hot on the heels of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Stockholm, CNN ran a story about Swedish fashion. It spoke mainly about the country’s rising export sales, due mainly to brands such as H&M, Acne, Cheap Monday, Tiger and J.Lindeberg, but it was the end of the article that piqued my interest the most.

Quoting street style photographer Yvan Rodic of The Facehunter, apparently Sweden’s blogging culture has contributed to its global success. A blogger phenomenon himself, Rodic says, “Sweden is a pioneering country when it comes to blogging. In the last decade, people from around the world have started looking at Swedish blogs for inspiration – mostly to enjoy the photos since they don’t necessarily understand the language.”

Judging by the worldwide recognition now garnered by most of the blogs rounded up by Daniel last year and last night’s Bloglovin’ awards – where incidentally, Swedish blogger Kenza won international blogger of the year – Rodic is absolutely on the money. But while I won’t deny the fashionable allure of blogs like Stockholm Street Style, Style by Kling and Fashion Squad (another winner at the awards for best blogger business), the unsung hero in the upward trajectory of Sweden and blogging may be Bloglovin’ themselves.

Essentially a blog update alert site and blog reader, Bloglovin’ was founded in late 2007 by a few Swedish lads in Täby. What’s telling about their biography is that they started out with some sort of “fashion community” web project, but abandoned that in favour of the blog reader. In spite of this, once it was up and running, the online fashion community flocked to Bloglovin’. Badges and widgets were proudly (and prominently) displayed on blogs, with followers heavily encouraged to use the site as their one-stop shop for all their favourites. The site currently receives millions of unique visitors a month.

And now with a well-attended awards show billed as “the Oscars of fashion blogging,” held in New York City for two years running, Bloglovin’ are arguably part of those aforementioned Swedish blogging pioneers, albeit more behind-the-scenes than frontline. Given that the awards are voted upon by blog followers (aka, the general public) and that they promote “likes” (aka, a blogger’s popularity) on their own site, Bloglovin’ are singularly harnessing the power of the masses to catapult fashion blogging even further. Potentially ensuring that we’ll be seeing bloggers front row at the major shows, fronting brands and creating successful businesses themselves for a while yet. Or at least as long as the blog loving and Bloglovin’ continues to grow.

B. Åkerlund and one of Madonna's headpieces from the show. Photo: PRNewsFoto/B. Akerlund

It was the most anticipated performance of the year and everyone wanted to see what she would be wearing. When Madonna stepped onto the stage at the Super Bowl half-time performance in a Roman centurion’s outfit designed by the brilliant Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy it safe to say that fashionistas all over the world almost wet themselves with excitement.

But behind every superstar there is a super stylist and in this case, that stylist is Swedish – cue fireworks and celebrations. B Åkerlund has worked with the most famous pop stars of today, including Lady Gaga, Rihanna and Black Eyed Peas, but said about Madonna’s Super Bowl performance that it “was by far the biggest challenge I have ever taken on in my career, and I could not be more honoured to be a part of such an amazing and historical event. […] Nothing could ever come close to working with Madonna on this Super Bowl performance, her attention to detail and commitment to all of her projects is truly inspiring and life changing.”

It was clearly a mammoth undertaking with 500 costumes for everyone from the Material Girl herself to LMFAO, Cee-Lo Green, Nicki Minaj and M.I.A, as well as 100 drum line performers, 150 gladiators and 200 choir singers.

Originally from Stockholm B. Åkerlund left for Los Angeles when she was 14. Since then she’s clocked up an impressive roster of music videos, often in tandem with her director husband Jonas Åkerlund, as well as styling world tours for Black Eyed Peas and Robbie Williams.

She is known for over-the-top dramatic styling and dramatic outfits from the most forward-thinking of today’s designers – an aesthetic that might not seem very Swedish but that works perfectly in the world of superstar music.

And for the Super Bowl performance it fit like a glove, giving classics such as Vogue, Music and Like A Prayer a backdrop of Roman, Egyptian, ecclesiastical and high school influences. Spelled out like that I’m not sure it makes sense but on stage and on TV it sure did. Watch it on YouTube if you don’t believe me.

1. Johanna Pihl

Recent graduate of the London College of Fashion and last year’s winner of the Young Fashion Industry award, Johanna Pihl staged her first full-fledged and independent show for A/W 2012. Inspired by the interior design of 18^th-century royal palaces but seen through a modern minimalist filter, the result was sleek separates and a colour palette of mainly white, black and gold. Pihl favours body-conscious tailoring and so will appeal to women who appreciate simplicity but with a little edge.

Johanna Pihl A/W 2012

2. Hernández-Cornet

While not “new” in the strictest sense, I suspect many would be hard pressed to invoke this Stockholm-based label when talking about great Swedish designers of the moment. After a standout S/S 2012 collection, Hernández-Cornet did not disappoint with their autumn/winter follow-up. In fact, the chic leather apron dresses, hooded tops and long yet lean silhouettes had the room positively buzzing afterwards. Which hopefully will translate into wider recognition of the label in Sweden and eventually, of course, abroad.

Hernández-Cornet A/W 2012

3. Maria Nordström

The first collection of this avant-garde designer provided welcome relief to a fashion week that many would only associate with casual cool. Influenced by “Catholic ambivalence, where the catwalk is our purgatory,” the visionary Maria Nordström created feminine and sculptural pieces that called to mind such international designers as Rick Owens and Martin Margiela. But don’t let the drama fool you – these are meant to be utterly wearable, as well.

Maria Nordström A/W 2012

All photos by Kristian Löveborg, courtesy of the ASFB.

In many ways Sweden’s men are the true fashionistas of Sweden, so a proper look at what was happening over the three days that go under the name of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Stockholm needs to include the biggest fashion trends for male consumers.

Ubi Sunt A/W 2012

1. Turtle necks

On the first day of the week, at Filippa K Man, designer Morgan Sundberg explained to me that the turtle neck was back. His words were to be proven true in almost every menswear show over the following days and worn in any way possible from chunky, as at Whyred and Boomerang, to thin, as at Ubi Sunt, or in between: Oscar Jacobson.

J. Lindeberg A/W 2012

2. Quilted

Techno looks were mixed up with more natural-looking materials and the synthetic vibe often came in the way of quilts. Most innovative were J. Lindeberg who showed quilted cargo shorts worn over trousers or leggings, but the material were spotted at Josefin Strid, Boomerang, The Local Firm and V Ave Shoe Repair.

Whyred AW 2012

3. Sixties silhouette

It’s the Mad Men influence that keeps trousers cropped and suits sharp. It was no wonder that it was the mod aficionados at Whyred who did the look in its most clear way, but the cropped trouser suit turned up at Oscar Jacobson and Tiger of Sweden as well.

Josefin Strid A/W 2012

4. Eastern influence

Most obviously seen at the Cheap Monday show where jumpers were wrapped around heads in a way reminiscent of Afghani mujaheddin, Eastern dress styles kept being alluded to throughout the week. Long shirts, reminiscent of the Pakistani kameez were seen at Carin Wester while sarongs popped up at Josefin Strid.

Oscar Jacobson A/W 2012

5. Dandy

The autumn in many ways seem a bit more dressed up than previously, it was a trend we could see at the international shows and it was also evident here in Stockholm. Capes at Oscar Jacobson, Karl Lagerfeld collars at Ubi Sunt and all-grey double-breasted ensembles at Carin Wester – it signals a move away from the more outdoorsy urban looks we’ve seen recently.

V Ave Shoe Repair A/W 2012

6. Styling

In a couple of shows there was a return of styling as a way of making clothes look fresh and interesting. It signalled that fashion designers think we should have some fun with the clothes and adapt them, turn them around and wear them in unexpected ways. This was seen as Cheap Monday, V Ave Shoe Repair and The Local Firm.

All photos by Kristian Löveborg, courtesy of the ASFB.

With more and more international eyes turning towards Sweden for the latest in nonchalant style and clothes people will actually wear out of the house, the shows provide a glimpse of the next big (wearable) trends in fashion. Here’s a run-down of the top five in womenswear:

1. Grey

Every conceivable shade of grey was represented in nearly all the women’s collections. Whether this is a reflection of the gloomy times or merely a small side-step from that retail favourite black, the trick for it to read as “A/W 2012” is to wear grey head to toe. Altewai.Saome, Hernández-Cornet and Busnel are the perfect examples.

Altewai.Saome A/W 2012

2. Flatforms

Love ‘em or leave ‘em (I love ‘em), but I believe “flatforms” (flat platform shoes) pretty much personify Swedish fashion – they provide height without the hurt, and thereby stylishness without the vanity. While Whyred went British creepers-crazy, Cheap Monday, Minimarket and V Ave Shoe Repair all showed fantastic versions of their own.

V Ave Shoe Repair A/W 2012

3. Peplums

The dictionary calls it “a short overskirt or ruffle attached at the waistline of a jacket, blouse, or dress,” but I think of it as a curious flourish about the hips. Either way, I counted several collections with peplums, Carin Wester and Altewai.Saome being the main proponents. I can see its appeal: peplums visually narrow the waist and accentuate a woman’s curves.

Carin Wester A/W 2012

4. Floor-length skirts/dresses

It’s been awhile that we’ve seen skirts and dresses this long. But to keep it interesting (and sexy), most had thigh-high slits – Filippa K, Dagmar and newcomer Maria Nordström, especially. What I really like about this trend is that you can go glam with heels or comfy with flats. Maybe even the aforementioned flatforms?

Dagmar A/W 2012

5. Loose trousers/jeans

Could it be? Are we really moving away from skinny jeans and trousers? Judging by the A/W 2012 shows, the answer is a resounding “Yes!” Even Cheap Monday, the fervent purveyor of skin-tight denim switched things up and gave us the baggiest jeans possible, cinched high at the waist. Elsewhere, Rodebjer and Filippa K favoured fluid wide-leg trousers.

Cheap Monday A/W 2012

Other wonderful and weird things from Fashion Week:

• Spike Lee was at the Dagmar show. Huh?
• H&M held a show with the finalists of their first ever Design Award. The winner was Stine Riis.
• Noomi Rapace opened Fashion Week with a ribbon-cutting ceremony and attended several shows.
• Overheard: Really sunburned American guy #1: “DUDE, that’s the ORIGINAL Girl with the Dragon Tattoo.” Really sunburned American guy #2: “NO WAY!” Really sunburned American guy #1: “WAY.” Really sunburned American guy #2: “NO WAY!” Really sunburned American guy #1: “WAY.” (I walked away at this point. For all I know, it went on this way for a while.)

All photos by Kristian Löveborg, courtesy of the ASFB.