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Archive for Daniel Björk - Fashion

Daniel Björk thinks the strength of Swedish fashion lies in it being accessible without becoming boring.

What’s next for Swedish fashion?

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Seebright, a jacket made of synthetic fibres, polyamide, Gore-Tex and then coated with a thermo-chromic and fluorescent material. At over 27 degrees it changes colour. Photo: Håkan Lindgren

 

What’s in store for Swedish fashion in the future? After all, we might have a successful high street and mid price sector, but what more?

It is sometimes claimed that innovation in fashion really comes from new research in textile production. One reason that Italy is still so successful as a fashion country is because of the expertise in creating incredibly sophisticated textiles that can be found in the country.

In Sweden, as with many countries, the manufacturing part of the fashion business came to a halt in the 1970s. There are still remnants of the industry, and logistical knowledge is still strong, but the bigger factories are gone.

This leads me to believe that the future of manufacturing is probably somewhere else, both geographically and technically.

Smart Textiles is a project based at The Swedish School of Textiles in Borås. It aims to connect companies and researchers in order to create the textiles of tomorrow.

Sweden has always been a country of innovators and risk-takers. From dynamite to the zipper, we just love to come up with new stuff (some of it more useful and peaceful than other things).

So let me introduce you to what Sweden seems to think is the next frontier in textiles (and now I am not talking about the knitted blood vessel). Glowing textiles, patterns that appear when you sit on them, materials that cool you down, a carpet that lights up when you step on it. All these textiles may not make it into clothes and are perhaps better suited for furniture design (and sometimes things like these can seem a bit gimmicky). But here is a real possibility for a happy marriage between Swedish fashion’s love of functionality and practicality and the Swedish innovative spirit.

At the moment it seems the companies working with Smart Textiles are not the major fashion companies in the country, but rather specialist, niche interests. If Acne, Tiger of Sweden, Cheap Monday and Hope sat down with the researchers, perhaps new and wonderful materials would be invented. It might be a high-heeled, sexy shoe that could be worn in slush. Another idea would be a knitted jumper that gets more warm as the temperature drops. All these are on my wish list (OK, perhaps not the high heeled shoes but I’m looking out for the ladeez). So, get working guys!

With this blog post I bid you good-bye, at least for this time. Thanks for reading!

Daniel Björk - Fashion

March 1, 2012

A royal baby will boost Swedish kids’ clothing

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Will Swedish fashion for kids have an upswing now that we've got a royal baby? Photo: Charlie Lee

 

I have a somewhat cool relationship with the Swedish – and Norwegian – royals (google me and see that I’ve been “slating” the style credentials of both princess Madelaine and princess Mette-Marit). But I have once met Crown Princess Victoria and must say I have a lot of respect for her; she’s extremely professional.

It can’t have escaped anyone that a royal baby has been delivered in Sweden and that her name is Estelle. She will soon be Sweden’s most fashionable baby.

This also seem to be what fashion companies are banking on. I might be harking on about Björn Borg, but this time it’s unavoidable since the company is launching a royal baby collection, in essence baby blue and pink babygros with crowns on them.

The market for upmarket baby and childrens clothes is increasingly seen as the next luxury segment to take off. Add royal babies to the mix (apart form Sweden there’s a new baby in Denmark and of course everyone is waiting for the British royals to confirm the rumours that the Duchess of Cambridge is indeed pregnant).

Sweden has at least one major kids brand and that is Polarn O. Pyret, known mainly for their stripes, and their graphic, clean, design-y look – but brands such as Acne also make clothes for children.

The most interesting scenario though is the growth of high quality clothes in the mid price sector, with a minimalist aesthetic or otherwise high design factor – mirroring the success of adult Swedish fashion brands. It might not be Marni for kids, but then again there will be a huge market for aspirational kids’ clothing (even larger than today). Among the Swedish brands that might be on everyone’s kids are Charlie Lee, by fashion veteran Lena Wallensteen, Modéerska Huset, a collection of colourful sustainable children’s wear, the ballerina flats by Mina, Mini Rodini, by Cassandra Rhodin who is a well-known fashion illustrator, and the slow clothing brand LUDD.

No matter what happens, that baby is going to be made into an aspirational fashion baby. That’s just how media work. I’m predicting a “get the royal baby look” article after her first appearance.

 

Daniel Björk - Fashion

February 24, 2012

The Swedish sensibility

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The invitation to the Björn Borg show. Photo: Björn Borg

 

A lot of my time, I’m not in Sweden, but in London. And when you get to the international scene, Sweden could sometimes seem a bit… hm… peripheral. At least it used to be that way. Because these days Swedish fashion is absolutely everywhere. London Fashion Week kicks off tonight with the opening of the new Cheap Monday store on Carnaby Street, while Björn Borg, the underwear brand, is putting on a fashion show at Battersea Power Station complete with performances by Robyn and Coco Sumner. This fashion show extravaganza will be livestreamed on MTV.co.uk.

Acne is showing their women’s wear line in London since a couple of season and it is one of the hottest tickets in town – the spring collection had the critics fawning and is sure to be another hit for the brand.

A few days ago, the Guardian ran an article about how “Scandinavian brands made ‘anti-cool’ fashionable”. Because behind Acne there are a lot of Swedish brands quietly moving onto the shelves of international stores. I noticed it myself where I lived until just a week ago, Windsor. In the more fashion-forward men’s stores in the town, Swedish brands were ubiquitous. From Acne to Our Legacy and Cheap Monday. These days even and old school geeky brand such as Fjällräven has some serious fashion cred. In fact, my intern here at Bon’s London office has one and she’s studying at Central Saint Martins.

To me, the success of Swedish fashion has a lot to do with the way style has moved into our everyday life in the last decade or so. Fashion is not just for parties or for the aristocracy; it is for everyone and every time, so what used to be Sweden’s Achilles heal is now its foremost strength. Having gotten used to making the most out of dressing for the Swedish weather and paired this knowledge with the practicality of Sweden’s fashion consumers (everything needs to be able to be washed in the washing machine, it shouldn’t cost too much, it should last a few seasons), Swedish fashion designers are well equipped for this new brave fashion world where we want to look fashionable all the time – yet still be presentable, professional and practical.

True, Swedish fashion is not only about this, but I believe this to be the core. And these days, when everyone talks about brand DNA, I think we can safely say that Swedish fashion has got it nailed.

Daniel Björk - Fashion

February 16, 2012

The Swede who ruled the world

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B. Åkerlund and one of Madonna's headpieces from the show. Photo: PRNewsFoto/B. Akerlund

 

It was the most anticipated performance of the year and everyone wanted to see what she would be wearing. When Madonna stepped onto the stage at the Super Bowl half-time performance in a Roman centurion’s outfit designed by the brilliant Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy it safe to say that fashionistas all over the world almost wet themselves with excitement.

But behind every superstar there is a super stylist and in this case, that stylist is Swedish – cue fireworks and celebrations. B Åkerlund has worked with the most famous pop stars of today, including Lady Gaga, Rihanna and Black Eyed Peas, but said about Madonna’s Super Bowl performance that it “was by far the biggest challenge I have ever taken on in my career, and I could not be more honoured to be a part of such an amazing and historical event. […] Nothing could ever come close to working with Madonna on this Super Bowl performance, her attention to detail and commitment to all of her projects is truly inspiring and life changing.”

It was clearly a mammoth undertaking with 500 costumes for everyone from the Material Girl herself to LMFAO, Cee-Lo Green, Nicki Minaj and M.I.A, as well as 100 drum line performers, 150 gladiators and 200 choir singers.

Originally from Stockholm B. Åkerlund left for Los Angeles when she was 14. Since then she’s clocked up an impressive roster of music videos, often in tandem with her director husband Jonas Åkerlund, as well as styling world tours for Black Eyed Peas and Robbie Williams.

She is known for over-the-top dramatic styling and dramatic outfits from the most forward-thinking of today’s designers – an aesthetic that might not seem very Swedish but that works perfectly in the world of superstar music.

And for the Super Bowl performance it fit like a glove, giving classics such as Vogue, Music and Like A Prayer a backdrop of Roman, Egyptian, ecclesiastical and high school influences. Spelled out like that I’m not sure it makes sense but on stage and on TV it sure did. Watch it on YouTube if you don’t believe me.

Daniel Björk - Fashion

February 10, 2012

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Stockholm A/W 2012: Menswear Trend Report

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The fashion circus is over for this time as you know having read Sabrina’s post from yesterday and as hectic as they are (especially if you are, as I was, reviewing some of the shows over at Bon.se and trying to get the review up within two hours) they are also great fun.

In many ways Sweden’s men are the true fashionistas of Sweden, so a proper look at what was happening over the three days that go under the name of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Stockholm needs to include the biggest fashion trends for male consumers.

Ubi Sunt A/W 2012

1. Turtle necks

On the first day of the week, at Filippa K Man, designer Morgan Sundberg explained to me that the turtle neck was back. His words were to be proven true in almost every menswear show over the following days and worn in any way possible from chunky, as at Whyred and Boomerang, to thin, as at Ubi Sunt, or in between: Oscar Jacobson.

J. Lindeberg A/W 2012

2. Quilted

Techno looks were mixed up with more natural-looking materials and the synthetic vibe often came in the way of quilts. Most innovative were J. Lindeberg who showed quilted cargo shorts worn over trousers or leggings, but the material were spotted at Josefin Strid, Boomerang, The Local Firm and V Ave Shoe Repair.

Whyred AW 2012

3. Sixties silhouette

It’s the Mad Men influence that keeps trousers cropped and suits sharp. It was no wonder that it was the mod aficionados at Whyred who did the look in its most clear way, but the cropped trouser suit turned up at Oscar Jacobson and Tiger of Sweden as well.

Josefin Strid A/W 2012

4. Eastern influence

Most obviously seen at the Cheap Monday show where jumpers were wrapped around heads in a way reminiscent of Afghani mujaheddin, Eastern dress styles kept being alluded to throughout the week. Long shirts, reminiscent of the Pakistani kameez were seen at Carin Wester while sarongs popped up at Josefin Strid.

Oscar Jacobson A/W 2012

5. Dandy

The autumn in many ways seem a bit more dressed up than previously, it was a trend we could see at the international shows and it was also evident here in Stockholm. Capes at Oscar Jacobson, Karl Lagerfeld collars at Ubi Sunt and all-grey double-breasted ensembles at Carin Wester – it signals a move away from the more outdoorsy urban looks we’ve seen recently.

V Ave Shoe Repair A/W 2012

6. Styling

In a couple of shows there was a return of styling as a way of making clothes look fresh and interesting. It signalled that fashion designers think we should have some fun with the clothes and adapt them, turn them around and wear them in unexpected ways. This was seen as Cheap Monday, V Ave Shoe Repair and The Local Firm.

All photos by Kristian Löveborg, courtesy of the ASFB.

 

Daniel Björk - Fashion

February 5, 2012