Monthly archives: January 2012

The importance of being earnest

A piece from Acne's pre-fall 2012 collection, showing that mid price fashion can be just as creative as luxury fashion. Photo: Acne

 

During the last decade luxury fashion prices have rocketed and what was once the upper end is now standard fare – a particularly embellished dress or jacket can cost €10000 and upwards. It’s prêt-à-porter with couture prices.

The Swedish market sees very little of this. There has been some Balmain sold in Stockholm, but should we look at Swedish brands they have almost in unison decided to occupy the middle ground. The Swedish fashion consumer is demanding in her own peculiar way. She wants trendy, fashionable clothes, but without having to pay premium prices. It is a winning formula internationally too – the mid price section is where all the action is at the moment in the fashion world and in a way it is an extension of the democratic vision of budget high street fashion, with the addition that these customers are more informed, more fashion-forward and a bit more willing to part with their hard-earned cash.

At the same time, many of the Swedish brands have realised they have to raise their price level abroad. What is mid price in Sweden comes across as budget on other markets – and not in a good way.

For many years there has been a discussion (in Sweden) about what Swedish fashion should be. I think the answer is pretty clear. While London is about talent and experimentation, Milan about luxury and Paris about creativity, Stockholm’s fashion week – officially called Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Stockholm – is about accessibility.

Personally, I believe the Swedish price points are just right for what anyone who isn’t extremely affluent should pay for good fashion, and sometimes I find that even Swedish mid price equals “overpriced”. But in general, you get a lot of fashion for the money. It comes across as honest and, especially now that luxury pricing is out of control, there is certainly a need for honest pricing.

After all, looking good shouldn’t be all about money.

Style Crush: Swedish Men

Photo by StockholmStreetStyle

I’ve been ogling a lot of Swedish men lately. Given the popular preconception that Sweden is chock full of beautiful people and only beautiful people, this may not come as a massive surprise, but bear with me. Because I’m actually staring at their clothes. Read more » >>

The case of the moustache

Håkan Juholt and his moustache. Photo: Riksdagen

Today, in Swedish daily Svenska Dagbladet, I write about the wife of the Swedish foreign minister, Anna Maria Corazza Bildt. In essence, my thesis is that she is a force of good in the Swedish fashion climate with her wild and daring style (a look that sometimes can go a bit overboard to say the least).

This also happens to be the day when the Swedish Social Democratic Party leader is resigning and so I came to think about Håkan Juholt (that’s his name) from a fashion perspective.

Many people have commented on his moustache. Some people from his own party criticised the focus on the bearded upper lip, pointing out that it was a “symbol of masculinity”, but most people saw the moustache as a sign of a less polished, more ordinary politician. He didn’t look like a banker, he didn’t look like he had been created in a PR firm’s lab like so many others. It gave him an air of joviality and honesty.

The Social Democratic Party in Sweden has a history of politicians becoming popular when they don’t come across as too suave. Former prime minister Ingvar Carlsson was portrayed as a shoe on humour show Helt apropå in the late Eighties and former speaker of the Swedish parliament, Birgitta Dahl, was played by a man sporting giant false teeth on the same show. I’d say that the show made both of them more popular. Ingvar Carlsson the shoe even became his “brand” and his acolytes started to call themselves “fotfolket” (literally “foot people” and Swedish for rank and file), wearing pins and T-shirts with Ingvar Carlsson, the shoe, drawn as a cartoon.

Surely, Håkan Juholt’s moustache could’ve worked the same magic? After all, when he was elected, people waved signs with a stylised moustache.

A few years ago I interviewed two Swedish political journalists who hade written a book about the style of politicians, a subject that is rarely touched upon unless someone’s handbag is a bit too luxurious or there’s a radical change in the look (like when former minister Sven-Otto Littorin suddenly appeared in public sporting a goatee). I remember one of the journalist, the left-wing Göran Greider, hoping for a politician just like Håkan Juholt. He believed there was an opening for someone that looked like he came from the countryside, someone who was more ordinary than posh, a politician that wasn’t too aware of his image. I had just asked whether politicians needed to become more aware of the way they looked in these media frenzied times.

That is still the question. Many people will probably see Juholt’s resignation as a sign that a politician can’t ignore the way he or she looks, but I think that in his case the issue was that people (and perhaps he himself) were too eager to make the moustache a part of brand Juholt.

When it comes to fashion and style politicians need to come across as genuine more than anything else. The problem with Håkan Juholt’s moustache wasn’t that he had one, but that people, including himself, tried to turn the moustache into a symbol of integrity. Last summer he proclaimed he wasn’t going to shave it off, thereby suggesting he wasn’t bowing to some perceived media pressure to streamline. But was there ever such pressure? I remain sceptical.

A/W 2012 Stockholm Fashion Week: A Preview

From Maria Nordström's upcoming "Purgatory" collection (photo: Maria Nordström)

In exactly twelve days from today, Autumn/Winter 2012 fashion week will descend upon Stockholm. While I’m still weirded out by the fact that whilst we’re in the midst of winter, we’ll be looking at clothes that’ll be worn twelve months from now (gotta love the long Swedish winter!), I’m excited nonetheless. Here’s a highly personal selection of shows that I think will make the most impact: Read more » >>

The most glamorous night of the year

I am back. With “I”, I mean Daniel Björk, who will be writing this blog together with Sabrina for a while. This is my report from last night’s “Ellegala”.

Even though I’ve been on the jury of the Guldknappen award there’s no denying that it is the annual Swedish Elle Awards that is the glamour-puss of the two. First of all, the setting in the luxurious winter garden in Grand Hotel makes for a great backdrop with it’s gilded interior and Versailles-like ambitions. It is also the industry awards in many ways, because Elle hands out awards for Photographer of the Year and Stylist of the Year. Read more » >>