Since I’ve been writing about fashion since before Acne was born I know it has not always been the company that the world abroad knows. Not that there’s anything strange with that, it’s quite possibly one of the strengths of Acne that they have been able to change so drastically. Even if they don’t and won’t change as much as they have in the past, this openness is evident in for example the collaboration with Candy Magazine (they did a transgender collection together).
But disregarding the fact that Acne makes actual clothes that people seem to love it is difficult to understate the importance of Acne Paper. I remember when the first issue came out and it felt very nice, Seventies in its feel it made me think of photographers like Francesco Scavullo.
It was with the magazine that Acne became the Acne of today. The magazine gave the brand a story it had lacked – it created a world for the brand. It also captured the imagination of the fashion world. Sofia Coppola might’ve namechecked her Acne jeans in French Vogue in December 2004, but in autumn 2005 Acne Paper was born and really made people look twice at that Swedish jeans company.
That first issue did come across more like a publicity vehicle for the brand than it does today since the fashion stories were all shot with Acne clothes. But already in the second issue, it became a proper magazine, and since then it has gone from being a PR stunt to an important voice in the fashion media.
It is a very rare bird in the fashion world, even if other brands have done magazines, mainly because of the strong vision of the editor-in-chief, Thomas Persson.
The next issue is out the second week of July, but in the meantime here are some of my favourite covers (at least for the moment).
The cover is a reference to a photo of the legendary eccentric Quentin Crisp, shot by Joseph Mulligan.
I loved this mix of East London club kid and something much more savage.
This shot of model Guinevere van Seenus is more painting than fashion shot and shows how daring Acne Paper really is.