Tag archives for Valborg

7 Things to Love About Valborg and May Day in Sweden

I’m starting a new campaign.

From now on, every spring day should be just like Valborg and May Day.

Sure, we can squeeze in a few days of work here and there, but once we’ve done our duty, I want everyone to get out to the park and kick off their shoes just like they did last Monday evening. Seriously.

I don’t want to go overboard here, but Valborg and May Day are like the best parts of Swedish spring condensed into 24 hours of pure sun-loving, laid back fun. To celebrate Valborg and May Day, all you need is a blanket, a couple of cans of cider or soda, a grill, and some sausages. Then you can just sit back and enjoy the day until it’s time to light enormous bonfires.

But I’m getting ahead of myself. There are seven elements from Valborg and May Day that I want to be applied to every single other day in spring, and they are as follows…

1. A RED DAY and a SQUEEZE DAY

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Witches and communists and fires, oh my!

I’m not much for right-wing politics in the US, and usually their talking points about Sweden tend towards the incendiary at the expense of the, ahem, facts. IT’S A SOCIALIST NATION!!! FULL OF GODLESS HEATHENS!!!! they cry from inside their padded cells TV studios.

STAY AWAY FROM THE BIKINI TEAM, FOR LO, THEY WILL TEMPT YOU UNTO WANTON BEHAVIOR!!!

Normally, I would laugh at them and their exaggerations, but just this one week, they are totally right.

Thanks to the annual double-whammy of Valborg and the 1st of May, we are about to be immersed in first, a wave of pagan celebrations and second, the worker’s holiday (a.k.a. the Communist’s Day to shine).

With the Swedish name, “Valborgmässoafton,” it’s a little tough to know what exactly we’re supposed to be celebrating. Other languages have a name that is more clearly connected to the holiday’s origins: Walpurgisnacht, Walpurgis Night, la Noche de Walpurgis, Noc Walpurgii, Valpurgiya gecəsi (ok maybe that last one is a little hard)—all honoring St. Walpurga, of course.

St. Walpurga: a lovely, oily, foaming-at-the-mouth kind of girl. Photo: Johnny Chicago/Wikipedia commons

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Good friends + sunshine + warm weather = One fantastic Valborg

The weather was amazing, the drinks were flowing, and Lund’s Stadspark (City Park) had a record number of visitors—25,000 people crammed together to party the day away. There were already 1,000 people laying claim to their territory at 9:30 am, and despite their early start, they were overrun by the floods of people crowding in afterwards.

I started off the day with a champagne breakfast at our friends’ house and made it to the park around 10:00. At that point, it was already hard to move through the patchwork of blankets, picnic baskets, and partiers.

Even as my friends and I gathered for breakfast, there was an excited tension in the air—excitement, enthusiasm, a fair amount of tiredness, and the sort of nervous energy that comes before an important event. There had been so much build up for Valborg before the big day that I had begun to feel a little skeptical about the hype.

“Yeah, yeah, yeah. I get it. Valborg. It’s cool.”

As I walked with everyone to the park, though, it was clear to me that my friends hadn’t overstated the Valborg mania that takes over Lund. The  good weather only amplified the effect.

Good friends, sunshine, and warm weather: Valborg couldn't get any better than that. Photos: Kate Wiseman.

Normally Lund is a fairly sleepy town, so I was totally unprepared for the madness at the park. In my mind, I expected mild-mannered picnicking and slightly rowdy groups of students punctuating a generally well-behaved crowd. Instead, I was met by hordes of people, mostly between 15 and 30 years old, dancing, drinking, making out, sprawled out in beach chairs and on blankets… but somehow all this was accompanied by the overwhelming feeling of everyone being incredibly happy. Outside of similar party weekends at college, I’ve never experienced such a feeling of mass euphoria. Everyone was just radiating a party mood.

Sometimes when you get a huge crowd of people in a small area, it can start feeling dangerous or out of control. That was definitely not the case in Lund. If nothing else, than the well-mannered lines for the Porta-Potties can be a testament to the respect that Swedes have for order, even when the call of nature and drunkenness were clouding good decision-making in other areas.

And of course, since it’s Sweden, everyone was ridiculously good looking. I saw so many girls wearing shirts intentionally baring their stomachs, and while I question the logic behind the look, I wasn’t disgusted by a single one. Now there’s something that’s special to Sweden. You know if it had been Austria or the United States, there would have been an incredible number of beer bellies and muffin tops on display. Not in Sweden.

Everything started getting a little fuzzy around early afternoon. Considering that I started out the day at 8 in the morning with champagne in one hand, coffee in another, it probably should come as no surprise that I crashed and burned around 3 pm… but waking up around dinner time with a pounding headache was a sad moment for me as a 20-something. My only conclusion is that I am old and weak and terrible at partying. Next year I’ll be in training so that I’m fit to fight.

I missed the bonfires, but I bicycled through town later that evening to go to another friend’s house for a party. It was a little like bicycling through an alternate reality. There was trash everywhere. It wasn’t just me—the Sydsvenskan newspaper reported today that Lund’s Valborg had gone without any major mishaps but that the town was “dirtier than ever before.”  Seriously.

The aftermath of Valborg in Lund... a far from ordinary scene. Photo: Kate Wiseman.

If the original purpose of Valborg was to celebrate the arrival of spring, then mission accomplished.

Final score for the day: Valborg 1, Kate 0. Valborg earned the win with the midday knockout, but I’ll be back stronger and meaner next year. And next time I’ll make it to the bonfires!

 

Useful phrases for Valborg in Lund:

Remember the sunscreen. Kom ihåg solkrämen.

I’ll meet you in the park! Vi ses i parken.

Lawn chair Brassestol

“Make every other drink a water.” Drick varannan vatten. (Swedish saying.)

Where are the bathrooms? Var är toaletterna?

Bonfire Majbål

It’s time to light the fire. Det är dags att tända elden.

Oooh, fire. It’s burning. Oooh, eld. Det brinner.

Headache Huvudverk

Hangover Baksmälla

I am hung over. Jag är bakfyll.

Coffee, please. Kaffe, tack.

Recovery Återhämtning

Spring in Sweden is a nonstop parade of holidays; this is not a joke.

As if I needed any more reasons to love spring in Sweden, we appear to be in the middle of a period of non-stop holidays. Last weekend was Easter, and this weekend is the two-for-one combination of Valborg (April 30th) and May Day (May 1st).

For those of you who went to college or university after the point at which students were supposed to Behave With Decorum and Pay Due Attention To Your Studies, remember Spring Frolics? The weekend of partying and ridiculousness right before exams? The final BOOYAH before cracking down in the library? Well, I’m about to relive that weekend with several thousand Swedes… and without the looming specter of a week’s drudgery in the library to follow.

For those of you who actually did Behave With Decorum and Pay Due Attention To Your Studies without Indulging in Irresponsible Behavior, I’m sure there are a few movies you could watch to get an idea of what I’m talking about.

All I’ve heard about for the last couple of weeks is Valborg, and from what I can tell, Valborg is the real-deal Spring Frolics for all Swedes. Bonfires! Choirs! Day drinking in the park! And lest you start to think that I’m hanging out with the wrong kind of people, it’s not just other 20-somethings who are looking forward to the day of revelry. My middle-aged students—the successful professionals looking to hone their English for a competitive edge—are just as excited.

As with many Swedish holidays, it’s hard to sort out what the original reason for the holiday was: Christian tradition? Pagan customs? Something related to the current amount of sunshine? It’s still unclear, and even the Swedes that I’ve been asking seem to have a pretty fuzzy understanding of the story behind Valborg.

Is this a holiday for witches or saints? Or sunshine-loving Swedes? Photos courtesy (l-r) of www.rhine-river-lights.com and catholicheritage.blogspot.com

Here are the few facts I have gleaned from the internet and bugging the people around me:

Valborg’s technical name is “Valborgsmässoafton,” which is known in English as Walpurgis Night. More on the “afton” part of the name later. The holiday started out as a pagan grain festival and was later appropriated by the Catholic Church as a religious holiday.

Just in case you didn’t know what a Walpurgis is, she was an 8th century Catholic saint from England who traveled to Germany to be a missionary. Depending on what website you read (and I checked the Vatican’s website for credible information, but no luck), she is the patron saint of rabies, seamen, invalids, farmers and/or the common cold… and/or a protectress against magic arts and/or failed harvests. What can I say? The poor woman’s got a lot on her plate.

Walpurgis Night is also supposed to be a night of witches or a “Witches’ Sabbath.” This might be connected to the legend of Blåkulla, but it’s definitely important to modern-day Satanists. (Scary thought.)

So what is a modern day Valborgsmässoafton all about? If you live in a student city like Lund or Uppsala, champagne breakfasts, hanging out in the park, and fancy student balls can all be part of a typical celebration. If you’re a little bit farther out in the countryside, bonfires are the most important part of the celebration. Very large bonfires. In Lund, a there’s a famous student choir (Studentsångarna) that performs the next day, singing out the winter and singing in the spring.

Maybe at its heart Valborg is just about FIRE! Unbelievable displays of FIRE! Photos by (clockwise) dark botxy/Flickr, t_buchtele/Flickr, WixPix/Flickr

This whole April 30th/May 1st two-for-one holiday brings me to my final and biggest question about Valborg. We celebrated Easter on Saturday, on “Påskafton,” or Easter Eve, just like Christmas is celebrated on the 24th, on “Julafton,” or Christmas Eve. If Saturday is “Valborgsmässoafton,” why is Sunday just May Day? Shouldn’t Sunday be Valborg and Saturday be Valborgsmässoafton? How can you have an “afton,” or eve, without an official holiday following? When I posed this question to a group of Swedes, I got nothing but blank stares and exasperated sighs in return. Why, my friends? Why?!